The Bicycle / Biking Gear Thread

I always thought you could boil "Fred" down to: 'Fat + one incongruous gear item that states 'I'm not serious' over-loudly.'

Like a tubby dude with flat handlebars on a $4k bike. Or etc.

The more I experience bike culture, the less eager I am to experience more.
 
I see. Since I don't join group rides or have a 7K carbon bike I can't be a Fred then :thu:. And while I'm not Tig/rickenvox fast I'm faster than average for my age group so I got that going for me too

I don't have helmet mirrors (I don't like the idea of something in my FOV) or a kickstand but I do have hairy legs, I'm pretty sure it makes me faster :mock:
 
I usually wave when I see another rider, and say "hello" when passing, etc.
I despise the ARP (arrogant roadie prick) mentality.
Yep, me too. At least a little wave or head nod, even from way across the road if they are going the other way. And I almost always say "Hi" when passing or being passed.

I don't know about being a Fred or not myself. I just put myself in kind of a Dad (right now with too much "Dad-bod") who rides and enjoys riding category. I might wear baggies, I might wear tights on a road ride (never tights on a MTB ride for me). I might not wear a helmet on my short commute or just riding a townie around town. I do follow the rules of the road, and the special rules here in Idaho for the Idaho Stop law (treat stop signs as yields, and stop lights as stop signs is a short way of explaining it) and generally try to be a good citizen whatever I am riding, wearing, etc. And to follow the "Don't be a dick about it" rule for whatever "it" is in the moment, which is just another way I have been stating the golden rule lately, instead of saying follow the golden rule.
 
Fun stuff last week. On my long ride I noticed what I thought was some road debris on my rear shifter cable. When I got home to take it off I was surprised to find that it was, in fact, broken cable wires from the shifter...then an aha moment, that's why the shifting has been somewhat inconsistent! Bare in mind that this is my first bike with indexed shifters so I was unaware of the impact. So I checked out a few videos to see how to replace them since they aren't as straightforward as friction shifters. I was disappointed initially to find that I would have to remove the handlebar tape, I think I have at least another 6months to a year left in the current ones. Then I found some other information that suggested it wasn't necessary so off I went to the LBS and got a cable for $4. Came home and went to install it with the knowledge of how to do it from the videos and ..MY SHIFTER LOOKS NOTHING LIKE THE ONES DEMO'D. Great, I can't find where the cable end is. I spend like 15 min in the hot sun looking, gave up and went back to look at more videos. No luck. Came back out and removed the bartape. Still no luck, I can see where it goes in but not where the end is. I do the wrong thing and shift to a position where I can see the end of the cable and pull it out, but now I can't figure out how it's supposed to go in. Another trip back to look a videos, still no luck. Then a brainstorm! I put the cable in reverse and I see where it suppose to come out. Victory! Ten minutes later the cable is back on, another few minutes to retape the bar then another 15-20 minutes getting the limit and tension right.

Almost 3 hours later it's working and on my ride Sunday it was great. But damn it was like doing plumbing work, never as easy as it looks the first time. When I redo the bartape I'm going to take the opportunity to redo all the cables since it's such a pain but at least this time I'll know where the cable goes.
 
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Fun stuff last week. On my long ride I noticed what I thought was some road debris on my rear shifter cable. When I got home to take it off I was surprised to find that it was, in fact, broken cable wires from the shifter...then an aha moment, that's why the shifting has been somewhat inconsistent! Bare in mind that this is my first bike with indexed shifters so I was unaware of the impact. So I checked out a few videos to see how to replace them since they aren't as straightforward as friction shifters. I was disappointed initially to find that I would have to remove the handlebar tape, I think I have at least another 6months to a year left in the current ones. Then I found some other information that suggested it wasn't necessary so off I went to the LBS and got a cable for $4. Came home and went to install it with the knowledge of how to do it from the videos and ..MY SHIFTER LOOKS NOTHING LIKE THE ONES DEMO'D. Great, I can't find where the cable end is. I spend like 15 min in the hot sun looking, gave up and went back to look at more videos. No luck. Came back out and removed the bartape. Still no luck, I can see where it goes in but not where the end is. I do the wrong thing and shift to a position where I can see the end of the cable and pull it out, but now I can't figure out how it's supposed to go in. Another trip back to look a videos, still no luck. Then a brainstorm! I put the cable in reverse and I see where it suppose to come out. Victory! Ten minutes later the cable is back on, another few minutes to retape the bar then another 15-20 minutes getting the limit and tension right.

Almost 3 hours later it's working and on my ride Sunday it was great. But damn it was like doing plumbing work, never as easy as it looks the first time. When I redo the bartape I'm going to take the opportunity to redo all the cables since it's such a pain but at least this time I'll know where the cable goes.
Yeah, the first time I messed with replacing a cable on the newer shifters was educational.
 
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Kinda sad that it’s been a year since I rode my bike. Today was fun though:

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The latest issue of Mountainbike Action. Ex NBA great, and 6 ft 7 inch tall, 195lbs, Reggie Miller. He's a hardcore mountainbike rider,and he races too.

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Here's the interesting story on how Reggie got into Mountainbiking. It involves the bassist of Rage Against The Machine.

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Anybody know where to find Felt discount codes? Checked coupon sites and bikeforums and can't find anything.
 
Did you ever find them? Is it still going on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, but I didn't really expect to find any. Just checking. There's no sale or anything but I saw a code field on their website. I bought a Raleigh last year that I just sold and got spoiled with two different discounts on that. Interested in the Broam gravel bike but need to test ride one first.
 
So I was searching around online today and found some Kona Libre's on sale for a nice price, brand new. Thinking of moving to pull the trigger, been wanting this bike for a couple years. Question, for those of you that ride a lot on road or cross/gravel. This bike comes with WTB 650b tubeless ready wheels and tires. I was thinking I would ultimately buy some 700c carbon hoops and built up some wheels like I did for my Kona mountain bike 29er. These wheels are not top of the line at all and are alu. But, was second guessing myself on 700c vs. 650b. I will ride this bike on road a lot, and likely it will replace my old Merckx I bought from @Tig for that purpose. For those of you who have ridden the 650b tires, or have friends or fellow riders that do, how do they find the speed out on the road, OR even out on the gravel/cross courses? If it is close enough for a rec rider, I might stick with 650b. I guess I can just find out for myself once it is here and I am riding it. But figured I would ask what you guys hear from your buddies or what you experience.

I am after the purple one. A grand less (less the closeout deal I found) and I want 2x. And I like the purple as it will match my mountain bike. :rotflmao: Yeah, actually that is true. The handling feels a bit like the old Merckx I have, which I am told kinda makes sense if you look a bit at the geometry of those two bikes. But it feels quicker to me overall in terms of acceleration, etc.

 
So I was searching around online today and found some Kona Libre's on sale for a nice price, brand new. Thinking of moving to pull the trigger, been wanting this bike for a couple years. Question, for those of you that ride a lot on road or cross/gravel. This bike comes with WTB 650b tubeless ready wheels and tires. I was thinking I would ultimately buy some 700c carbon hoops and built up some wheels like I did for my Kona mountain bike 29er. These wheels are not top of the line at all and are alu. But, was second guessing myself on 700c vs. 650b. I will ride this bike on road a lot, and likely it will replace my old Merckx I bought from @Tig for that purpose. For those of you who have ridden the 650b tires, or have friends or fellow riders that do, how do they find the speed out on the road, OR even out on the gravel/cross courses? If it is close enough for a rec rider, I might stick with 650b. I guess I can just find out for myself once it is here and I am riding it. But figured I would ask what you guys hear from your buddies or what you experience.

I am after the purple one. A grand less (less the closeout deal I found) and I want 2x. And I like the purple as it will match my mountain bike. :rotflmao: Yeah, actually that is true. The handling feels a bit like the old Merckx I have, which I am told kinda makes sense if you look a bit at the geometry of those two bikes. But it feels quicker to me overall in terms of acceleration, etc.

I like a 2x chainring setup to avoid the big ratio jumps you get with a 1x.

Unless the bike is going to spend most of it's time off road, I wouldn't stick with the 650b wheel/tire setup. I might keep them for when the route is more technical than just gravel, though. That's entering MTB territory so I'd probably switch bikes, not wheels sizes.

I like riding 700c wheels on my road, mixed, and gravel rides because of the variety of treads and widths I can switch between. On a single set of wheels, I've mounted 25mm, 28mm and 32mm slicks for the road. When you go to 28mm, you can tell the with slows you down just a little, and can really feel it with 32mm's. For CX, I have 3 different 33mm width tread styles to choose from. For gravel and mixed offroad, I use 38mm and 40mm tires with different tread patterns, depending on the route.

Maxxis 700c 40mm Ramblers
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I like a 2x chainring setup to avoid the big ratio jumps you get with a 1x.

Unless the bike is going to spend most of it's time off road, I wouldn't stick with the 650b wheel/tire setup. I might keep them for when the route is more technical than just gravel, though. That's entering MTB territory so I'd probably switch bikes, not wheels sizes.

I like riding 700c wheels on my road, mixed, and gravel rides because of the variety of treads and widths I can switch between. On a single set of wheels, I've mounted 25mm, 28mm and 32mm slicks for the road. When you go to 28mm, you can tell the with slows you down just a little, and can really feel it with 32mm's. For CX, I have 3 different 33mm width tread styles to choose from. For gravel and mixed offroad, I use 38mm and 40mm tires with different tread patterns, depending on the route.

Maxxis 700c 40mm Ramblers
tyre-image-ravager_m.png
Yah, I think that is what I will do. Just sell the 650b set up new and get 700c (hopefully carbon) with dtswiss hubs or something like that like I did on my mountain bike. Just finished watching the vid again and it says I can go up to 45mm, 700c with fenders if I wanted. Pretty fat. And I will be using this as a road + gravel bike for all our dirt roads. I have a mountain bike when things get technical at all. Road, paved or dirt, will be the point of this bike, with the hope of getting some longer miles in to aid in training, and for just cruising and enjoying.
 
I like a 2x chainring setup to avoid the big ratio jumps you get with a 1x.

Unless the bike is going to spend most of it's time off road, I wouldn't stick with the 650b wheel/tire setup. I might keep them for when the route is more technical than just gravel, though. That's entering MTB territory so I'd probably switch bikes, not wheels sizes.

I like riding 700c wheels on my road, mixed, and gravel rides because of the variety of treads and widths I can switch between. On a single set of wheels, I've mounted 25mm, 28mm and 32mm slicks for the road. When you go to 28mm, you can tell the with slows you down just a little, and can really feel it with 32mm's. For CX, I have 3 different 33mm width tread styles to choose from. For gravel and mixed offroad, I use 38mm and 40mm tires with different tread patterns, depending on the route.

Maxxis 700c 40mm Ramblers
tyre-image-ravager_m.png
Have you ever tried the gravel kings? Thinking for most use I will favor rolling resistance over big knobs at least in the rolling area. There may be some rocks in the road here and there, but the issue usually is dust or kitty litter over hard. Side/corner tread is way more important than rolling tread to me I think. So thinking I want something that feels fast-ish on the road and secure out in the dirt, if such a thing is made.

I have run lots of miles on my 35c Clement X'plor USH's which are a little heavy, but roll along ok. But they are on my old converted Fisher mountain bike, so that bike is not fast anyway.
 
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Have you ever tried the gravel kings? Thinking for most use I will favor rolling resistance over big knobs at least in the rolling area. There may be some rocks in the road here and there, but the issue usually is dust or kitty litter over hard. Side/corner tread is way more important than rolling tread to me I think. So thinking I want something that feels fast-ish on the road and secure out in the dirt, if such a thing is made.

I have run lots of miles on my 35c Clement X'plor USH's which are a little heavy, but roll along ok. But they are on my old converted Fisher mountain bike, so that bike is not fast anyway.
I use the 40mm Maxxis Ramblers for all gravel rides and the OEM Specialized 38mm Trigger Pro's for mixed rides (I've had them on since early December):

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