Ask a (hack) luthier!

IamSeaDevil said:
So how are things Doug?
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Sorry I've been MIA. My wifes grandmother passed away and we had an out of town funeral so it's been a busy week or two. Things are good otherwise, gearing up for the open house!!

Peeker said:
hey Doug, lemme pick yer brain...
if a hack bought one of them kitsoff ebay, could I make a playable guitar out ot it?
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Sure! Well, maybe. No. Probably yes?! LOL Honestly, there's no reason you couldn't build a playable guitar out of most of those kits. It's kind of a blanket statement so it depends. As long as the machine work is good, all the holes and parts are drilled where they are supposed to be then sure. You'll probably learn a lot about fretwork, it'll need it likely along with cutting a nut and how big a difference hardware can make.

GilmourD said:
We're gonna find out together, bro.

My kit arrives tomorrow. My only concern, since I want to replace the hardware, is that I've seen a couple posts on forums where the builder complains that the stop tailpiece has a post spacing of 80mm instead of the standard 82mm. Seems that everything I find in the aftermarket is either explicitly 82mm or just says "FITZ UR GIBSUN!!!"

Wut do?
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You'll probably be ok. If not use the tonepro locking studs, the ID on their studs is pretty small (since the cap locks) and will likely squeeze in IF the C-C is 2mm narrow.
 
GilmourD said:
We're gonna find out together, bro.

My kit arrives tomorrow. My only concern, since I want to replace the hardware, is that I've seen a couple posts on forums where the builder complains that the stop tailpiece has a post spacing of 80mm instead of the standard 82mm. Seems that everything I find in the aftermarket is either explicitly 82mm or just says "FITZ UR GIBSUN!!!"

Wut do?
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Reminds me of The First Act Lola. I lost the bridge. They come in small post, or large post, I ordered the large. It came in, and was still too small. It's some bastard size, unlike any other guitar. I called MF, to tell them it didn't fit, I needed to send it back. They said it was non-returnable, so they gave me my money back, and let me keep it. Pulled one post out of the guitar, and brought it to a machine shop. Anyways, that was 2, or 3 years ago. Just found the bridge last month. :grin:
 
Hey Doug, how are your headstock joints constructed? Download them correct the issues that Gibson typically has with angled headstocks breaking off?

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Embarrassing that I read it on the 16th, and didn't say something myself. Sorry, it went right over my head. Mojo sent.
 
Thank you guys for the kind words, much appreciated.

GilmourD said:
Hey Doug, how are your headstock joints constructed? Download them correct the issues that Gibson typically has with angled headstocks breaking off?

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On my set neck models (Daylighter/Starliner) the necks are one piece with an 11* headstock angle. I like 11*, steep enough for tension, but not so drastic it's prone to breakage. I also add maple splines that run from the start of the neck (well, just a hair short so you can't see them) through the face of the headstock. These are under the fretboard and headstock veneer so you can't see them. It adds a little more stability to the neck along with increasing the strength through that transition. I also use a custom built dual action rod that only takes a 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep channel out of the headstock face.

The few guitars we've had damaged headstocks that come in for repair (including the one from Ben from A Lot Like Birds that he just brought after completely breaking the neck out of!) most often will crack around the fretboard/headstock transition but fail to crack in the typical gibson fashion from one side, through the bottom of the TRC scoop to the other. Everyone of them has been repaired with minimal fuss.

The Banshee's being neck thru are a little different. Same truss rod but a scarf jointed 11* headstock with a 2piece Spanish Cedar neck. (It starts as one piece but I cut it up the center, flip the grain direction so if it wants to move, they'll move against each other canceling the movement out).
 
dougk said:
I also use a custom built dual action rod that only takes a 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep channel out of the headstock face...
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I've never understood why Gibson is still using those auto-lug-nut sized truss adjusters in the weakest spot on their non-maple necks. :facepalm:
 
What do you use for headstock veneers? And what's the easiest/least expensive veneer to use?

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I just saw this thread. Thanks for the info. And putting perspective on the costs involved. Condolences.
 
GilmourD said:
What do you use for headstock veneers? And what's the easiest/least expensive veneer to use?

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You can use anything really but I use the black fiberboard from LMI. Sometimes I roll my own though.
 
dougk said:
You can use anything really but I use the black fiberboard from LMI. Sometimes I roll my own though.
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Do you pre-cut it or do you get it close and then file/trim/whatever to size?

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GilmourD said:
Do you pre-cut it or do you get it close and then file/trim/whatever to size?

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I cut them with my laser with the inlay pocket and tuner holes but slightly oversized on the perimeter. Then I glue it down (with the inlay in the pocket), use it as a guide for drilling the tuner holes then just flush trim the excess away.
 
dougk said:
I cut them with my laser with the inlay pocket and tuner holes but slightly oversized on the perimeter. Then I glue it down (with the inlay in the pocket), use it as a guide for drilling the tuner holes then just flush trim the excess away.
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dr-evil.jpg


LOL

So, what do you use to flush trim the excess away? Files? Sandpaper? LOL

Sorry to be a PITA, but I'm thinking about maybe doing a headstock veneer on my Explorer project rather than paint it black or have it match the body.

Also, gotta figure out if I'm going to use the threaded inserts that came with the kit (which fit the pre-drilled holes somewhat snugly) but with the studs from the TonePros set I got (which thread perfectly into the kit's threaded inserts) or somehow get the TonePros threaded inserts to fit in the holes which are a little big without needing a drill press. LOL Probably just use the included threaded inserts. LOL
 
dougk said:
Because that's how they've always done it and guitar players are afraid of change. Shit, reference the great truss rod condom debate of 2013. LOL
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Those guys are batshit crazy. The idea that you need to buy a guitar and then ship it to some dudes who are going to mod it, doubling the price in the process is flat out insane. But hey, it's their money, right?
 
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