P.S. Do you have a new project in the works since the completion of the #2 LP?
If so where are you showing the build?
My archtop build
- Thread starter meandi
- Start date
P.S. Do you have a new project in the works since the completion of the #2 LP?
If so where are you showing the build?
73Custom
GuitarNoobie from HC
have not started anything yet...
once i do i will let you know.
probably be a few months.
Cutting side wood out of a larger block.
I clamp the fence to the top of the spindle sander for a specified thickness & use this for removing the saw marks from the side wood before bending.
This is also my method for thicknessing fingerboards as well.
Soak tank for wetting side wood for bending.
Gotta have a heat source, which will convert the moisture in the previously soaked wood to steam, with a die to bend around for uniformity of shape in the bends.
I have an industrial heat gun from my 30 yr career in auto body shops that I stick into a piece of thin wall 2" dia. steel tubing.
Thermometer shows 250 degrees...more than hot enough for making steam in the wood fibers.
The body side mold has been coated with marine varnish to prevent absorbtion of the moisture in the wet side wood.
When the steam is generated it softens the fibers in the wood, making them pliable...You can feel the wood "relax" as it's being worked over the hot pipe.
Although there are times that it does split a bit when pushed to quickly, as you can see here in the cutaway...bear in mind this was my first attempt at bending wood.
This was easily repaired as I'll show you further on in the process.
All clamped up & let it dry for a few days.
I clamp the fence to the top of the spindle sander for a specified thickness & use this for removing the saw marks from the side wood before bending.
This is also my method for thicknessing fingerboards as well.
Soak tank for wetting side wood for bending.
Gotta have a heat source, which will convert the moisture in the previously soaked wood to steam, with a die to bend around for uniformity of shape in the bends.
I have an industrial heat gun from my 30 yr career in auto body shops that I stick into a piece of thin wall 2" dia. steel tubing.
Thermometer shows 250 degrees...more than hot enough for making steam in the wood fibers.
The body side mold has been coated with marine varnish to prevent absorbtion of the moisture in the wet side wood.
When the steam is generated it softens the fibers in the wood, making them pliable...You can feel the wood "relax" as it's being worked over the hot pipe.
Although there are times that it does split a bit when pushed to quickly, as you can see here in the cutaway...bear in mind this was my first attempt at bending wood.
This was easily repaired as I'll show you further on in the process.
All clamped up & let it dry for a few days.
73Custom
GuitarNoobie from HC
very cool pics and explanation on the wood bending, thanks...
i am hanging here, HC, MLP and GCF. Mostly still at HC...
i am either gonna do another Les Paul or possibly a double neck bass/guitar hybrid like FarToMany is putting together here...
http://markweinguitarlessons.com/forums/showthread.php?14194-Doubleneck-Bass-Guitar-build
here's the LP i wanna do ...
Thanks, glad you enjoyed.
What's GCF?...not familiar with that one...link?
i am either gonna do another Les Paul or possibly a double neck bass/guitar hybrid like FarToMany is putting together here...
http://markweinguitarlessons.com/forums/showthread.php?14194-Doubleneck-Bass-Guitar-build
here's the LP i wanna do ...
I've seen the double neck & I now recall the LP from the #2 thread over at HC.
That's a nice looking...um...guitar.
newbuilder
snoochie boochies
The side of that or the thickness of the wood that you are using on the sides incourages me to do the same with my build, I was thinking that to bend it would take a much thinner matierial, that's super cool.
Ya, the side wood is 3/32 or .093" thick, which is Benedetto's spec.
Some build heavier, some lighter...I believe Ken Parker's archtop sides are .050", if I remember correctly from my pre-build research.
By using steam boxes, much heavier woods can also be bent, google steam bending & watch wooden boat builders, bent wood chair builders etc do some amazing things.
I built a set of turnbuckle activated internal body presses to keep the sides securely against the sides of the mold.
Cut the neck block to specs from mahogany & glued/clamped in place.
Cut for a nice snug fit at the end of the body
Cut & shaped the tail block to match the radius of the body, & glued in place.
Starting to look like a guitar here.
Cut the neck block to specs from mahogany & glued/clamped in place.
Cut for a nice snug fit at the end of the body
Cut & shaped the tail block to match the radius of the body, & glued in place.
Starting to look like a guitar here.
Neck & tailblocks are leveled with the sides & to each other with this long sanding board.
I built a slender version of the body mold that splits on the centerline.
Also visable in this shot are the two halves of the mahogany back for this guitar in glue-up.
With the internal press in place, the kerfings are glued/clamped in place.
Side stiffeners are installed after the kerfings, which add a lot of strength to the shape of the sided, have been installed.
Sides were in the mold at this time, for bracing, but center press had been removed.
In safe storage while I build the top & back plates.
I built a slender version of the body mold that splits on the centerline.
Also visable in this shot are the two halves of the mahogany back for this guitar in glue-up.
With the internal press in place, the kerfings are glued/clamped in place.
Side stiffeners are installed after the kerfings, which add a lot of strength to the shape of the sided, have been installed.
Sides were in the mold at this time, for bracing, but center press had been removed.
In safe storage while I build the top & back plates.
Last edited:
pjackson92
PRSnorkler
i am in awe drool0
wave0
Used the mold to trace the body shape on the mahogany back plate blank.
Cut it slightly oversized & cleaned it up on the spindle sander.
Thinned down the edge to close to final tollerance on the safety planer.
And using hand planes, scrapers etc brought it down until all of the arching templates fitted in their proper positions.
This was several days work, as this was my first experience with this...take my time...get a feel for it...make sure it turns out well.
Cut it slightly oversized & cleaned it up on the spindle sander.
Thinned down the edge to close to final tollerance on the safety planer.
And using hand planes, scrapers etc brought it down until all of the arching templates fitted in their proper positions.
This was several days work, as this was my first experience with this...take my time...get a feel for it...make sure it turns out well.
With the outside profile of the back completed, it's time to hollow out the inside.
Built this fixture to follow the curvature of the back plate on it's outside.
Set the drill stop on the drill press for the thickness dimension & removed much of the excess material to be removed.
Then using chisel, palm plane & scrapers removed the material.
The dimension for the thickness of the back plate is 3/16".
Built this measuring device for checking my work.
Built this fixture to follow the curvature of the back plate on it's outside.
Set the drill stop on the drill press for the thickness dimension & removed much of the excess material to be removed.
Then using chisel, palm plane & scrapers removed the material.
The dimension for the thickness of the back plate is 3/16".
Built this measuring device for checking my work.
jrockbridge
Stealing Your Riffs
Beautiful!
Thanks.
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Built a "plug" fixture that fits inside the body mold...
...to hold the sides up slightly for good contact while gluing the back plate to the sides.
Removed the carving cradle from it's pedestle & using it as a clamping caul, which provides consistant down force around the entire perimeter of the glue surfaces.
Sealed the inside with shellac to help prevent the body woods from being affected by/ reacting to humidity changes.
Made the grain of the mahogany "pop" a bit as well
