MWGL Photography thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Couple questions about my recent guitar pics.... When I got home and DL'd them off the camera, a good deal of them had the guitar all washed out as if overexposed. The finish is very glossy, and I had to be carefull that I wasn't getting a bad reflection. They looked okay in the viewfinder. It looks like the camera exposed for the background instead. Probably a noob mistake. How do I prevent it? These are a few originals without any post processing.

IMG_0200 by Jim S, on Flickr

IMG_0199 by Jim S, on Flickr
 
Check out your camera manual and look for spot metering mode and how to activate it. Also, google this and watch an online video on the subject (I'm sure they explain it better than I can and have example pics and instructions). Basically, digital cameras in automatic mode try to find the correct exposure for what is in the viewfinder. This works well most of the time, but in situations like you have where the contrasts are extreme (bright sunlight versus dark shade) or complex (light foreground, shadow mid ground, light background), the camera gets confused and gives you an exposure that just isn't what you want. With spot metering, rather than trying to properly expose everything in the picture, you TELL the camera what the subject is and it then sets that object exposure correctly, and ignores the rest of the image. In your case, you would spot meter on the guitar and this would produce a well exposed guitar, but a very dark middle ground shadow. For spot metering you basically have a small dot in the viewfinder you can move around with a thumb control until it is on the thing you want exposed, and then the camera will adjust things so that object will be exposed properly. In some cameras it is just a dot that you have to put on the subject by moving the composition. This mode is also super useful when you are trying to take a picture of a person with a very bright background (set the exposure/metering dot on the person, and you will get a good pic of the person and an overexposed background), pictures of the moon, pictures of snow, pictures in fog, and pics in very high contrast areas. It is probably useful for other stuff too, but these are what come to mind.

One way to avoid this in the future, as these pics often look OK on the small LCD preview panel, and fine through the viewfinder, is to use the camera's histogram function. You would see the overexposure of this image as a giant peak on the right side of the histogram, and then you would get a good idea that you were overexposed. I use the histogram for almost every picture, and most cameras let you display this on the preview window for each new picture. It is a good habit to get into having this one there and just giving it a quick glance to see that things tend to be in the middle of the histogram with limited peaks on the ends. On my camera there is an info button that will display the histogram when it is pushed a couple of times.
 
Last edited:
Took a few before a bike ride, it then pissed down when i was in a beer garden so didn't take any more. Fairly sure I've posted similar ones to these before but I was trying out my new lens still
V2fWbjZ.jpg

GqSJyEf.jpg

d77dVGl.jpg

iLgSdgA.jpg

qZDHqay.jpg

WYX9DRO.jpg
 
Like the compression a long lens gets you

Zoom does give some interesting perspectives when you use the focal length to pull stuff together. It is also really great for getting nice background blurring on faces and stuff.
 
New macro arrived today. I only took a few test shots of some flowers in the back garden. The ring flash will not come for a couple more days, but I wanted to test it.

Not a great composition, but it is super fun to take crazy macro stuff again.

1V1A1459 COPY A.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top