wagdog
Ack
I based the circuit on a silverface champ.^^^^^ Uhhhhh, not to be picky, or a yerk, but that looks like it's a few notches above a Champ...
It is time... 5F1 Build Thread
- Thread starter RyanNo3
- Start date
baimun
Funkasaurus Rex
What kind of saw blade or tool do you use to make that kind of corner joint?
Prages
User Error
I don't know if it's how those were made, but you can buy dovetail jigs and use a router bit to make them.
I always used finger joints on my cabinets. I made my own jig and used a table saw and dado blade to do the joints.
RyanNo3
Pedals - Pedals - Pedals
It's a dovetail jig and router. I'll get models and pricing together and shoot it over to you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RyanNo3
Pedals - Pedals - Pedals
BIG UPDATE!
Strap in folks because here we go...
This weekend was extremely eventful. Mrs. #3 left for Colorado Friday afternoon.. I started with the chassis on Friday night. Enough to get the transformers and chassis components installed.
It took a couple of hours only because I wanted to familiarize myself with the pin-outs, transformers and kind of create a game plan for today (Monday).
Saturday we had a yard sale and I bailed once I figured traffic had died down... Then we started on the curly maple box. We learned from the pine box that the nice dovetails needed a little more room so we made the box a tad bigger than a traditional 5e3 sized box.
Cut the pieces and glued.
I had to do my own dovetailing... I'm glad I learned. It's pretty easy with the right tooling. Just follow the guide.
While we were waiting we stained the pine practice enclosure.
Good ol' American Brown. The fixed baffle thing was a bad idea. That got 'readjusted' today. Plus the staining isn't consistent on the plywood. We did use ply on the baffle for the pine box as well as the cleats.
On the maple... Solid curly maple all around except for a solid pine baffle on plywood cleats.
Hey let's see if the glue dried!
It did!!!
We offset the back panels... So they're trimmed down from 5/8 to 3/8. That way, we could screw it directly to the back of the amp.
We routed the holes out as an homage to a friend of mine... He did the circular ports on the back of my OTS head cabinet.
Issue - We did have to redo the top of the enclosure when we cut the control panel slot. We cut into some of the spare wood and had to use a spare piece for the top-back panel with the ports... It was warped. We tamed it the best we could so there isn't an exact flush mount but it's close.
Now we route and shave the baffle to fit.
Below... We mounted the chassis. And I elected to mount the volume pot dead center... Which offsets the mounting holes. It was further off than I wanted... but I'm ok... My OCD gets appeased with the knob in the middle so I'm going to go with it.
Time to sand... 80 to 100 to 150 to 220 to 400. There's back and forth because each step shows a previous unseen error.. So it's 400 back to 150 then 220 to take out random scuffs.
Then staining/dying! We used wood dye and tung oil to get this looking great. I was in love with the pine box until I did the wood dye. It's really quick drying and easy to work with.
Survey says!
Then grill cloth!
Chassis build is next!
Strap in folks because here we go...
This weekend was extremely eventful. Mrs. #3 left for Colorado Friday afternoon.. I started with the chassis on Friday night. Enough to get the transformers and chassis components installed.
It took a couple of hours only because I wanted to familiarize myself with the pin-outs, transformers and kind of create a game plan for today (Monday).
Saturday we had a yard sale and I bailed once I figured traffic had died down... Then we started on the curly maple box. We learned from the pine box that the nice dovetails needed a little more room so we made the box a tad bigger than a traditional 5e3 sized box.
Cut the pieces and glued.
I had to do my own dovetailing... I'm glad I learned. It's pretty easy with the right tooling. Just follow the guide.
While we were waiting we stained the pine practice enclosure.
Good ol' American Brown. The fixed baffle thing was a bad idea. That got 'readjusted' today. Plus the staining isn't consistent on the plywood. We did use ply on the baffle for the pine box as well as the cleats.
On the maple... Solid curly maple all around except for a solid pine baffle on plywood cleats.
Hey let's see if the glue dried!
It did!!!
We offset the back panels... So they're trimmed down from 5/8 to 3/8. That way, we could screw it directly to the back of the amp.
We routed the holes out as an homage to a friend of mine... He did the circular ports on the back of my OTS head cabinet.
Issue - We did have to redo the top of the enclosure when we cut the control panel slot. We cut into some of the spare wood and had to use a spare piece for the top-back panel with the ports... It was warped. We tamed it the best we could so there isn't an exact flush mount but it's close.
Now we route and shave the baffle to fit.
Below... We mounted the chassis. And I elected to mount the volume pot dead center... Which offsets the mounting holes. It was further off than I wanted... but I'm ok... My OCD gets appeased with the knob in the middle so I'm going to go with it.
Time to sand... 80 to 100 to 150 to 220 to 400. There's back and forth because each step shows a previous unseen error.. So it's 400 back to 150 then 220 to take out random scuffs.
Then staining/dying! We used wood dye and tung oil to get this looking great. I was in love with the pine box until I did the wood dye. It's really quick drying and easy to work with.
Survey says!
Then grill cloth!
Chassis build is next!
Last edited:
Prages
User Error
Same here. Attachments not working!
RyanNo3
Pedals - Pedals - Pedals
Haha... Only 15 attachments per thread...
Electronics time!!! Hardware is already mounted on the chassis so time to populate the eyelet board.
Taking my time.
After this step, I ran to a local amp shop. They let me use bench space and that way if I have a question, I can just ask.
So I asked @Modern Saint and @Prages about mounting. It was suggested that I install a heavy duty ground bus. It's rigid and acts as a mount without drilling through the chassis. Take a look.
I did have to put some shielding on the 16uF. Not proud of it but it's practical.
Drilled, installed and wired in the impedance selector switch.
Then point to points until my eyes went crossed. Once I was done... I stood up for the first time in three hours and almost blacked out. Ran it through a limiter... Forgot one wire from the pot to the board, so naturally there was not sound.
Readjusted and whammo. It was singing.
I still need to apply a few more coats of tung oil and then I'll take it out to mount in the cabinet. That should be Wednesday or Thursday. Work trip out of state for the next day or so.
Stay tuned for the reveal/final rose.
Electronics time!!! Hardware is already mounted on the chassis so time to populate the eyelet board.
Taking my time.
After this step, I ran to a local amp shop. They let me use bench space and that way if I have a question, I can just ask.
So I asked @Modern Saint and @Prages about mounting. It was suggested that I install a heavy duty ground bus. It's rigid and acts as a mount without drilling through the chassis. Take a look.
I did have to put some shielding on the 16uF. Not proud of it but it's practical.
Drilled, installed and wired in the impedance selector switch.
Then point to points until my eyes went crossed. Once I was done... I stood up for the first time in three hours and almost blacked out. Ran it through a limiter... Forgot one wire from the pot to the board, so naturally there was not sound.
Readjusted and whammo. It was singing.
I still need to apply a few more coats of tung oil and then I'll take it out to mount in the cabinet. That should be Wednesday or Thursday. Work trip out of state for the next day or so.
Stay tuned for the reveal/final rose.
Attachments
RyanNo3
Pedals - Pedals - Pedals
Bah... Ok.. I'll post here in the order they were supposed to. The 'edit' feature doesn't let you re-add them to the thread.
I'll upload and link them.
Attachments
wagdog
Ack
Nice work.
It's a magical feeling when an amp YOU BUILT fires up and makes sound.
I would think you could move the heater wires, maybe use a nylon tie or something and remove that shield over the filter cap.
I also think you're going to want to try a cathode bypass on V1a at some point.
It's a magical feeling when an amp YOU BUILT fires up and makes sound.
I would think you could move the heater wires, maybe use a nylon tie or something and remove that shield over the filter cap.
I also think you're going to want to try a cathode bypass on V1a at some point.
RyanNo3
Pedals - Pedals - Pedals
YES.
It's not the heater wires. It's a different pilot light assembly to accommodate the jewel I wanted. Simple fix.
We'll see about the cathode bypass.
wagdog
Ack
The 5E1 has one, 25uf/25v. I'd experiment, or use a switch.
I believe you can't bypass v1b because it would mess up the NFB.
Another thing you could consider is a 120pf (or less) silver mica (or ceramic, whatever) cap across the top of the vol control - a bright cap. Would work well on a switch - maybe sub in a push/pull for the master vol.
And sorry, I just can't leave an amp alone - it's a weakness, lol.
