YOUR Acoustis...

This Takamine EF440SCGN is my current acoustic. I really love the neck shape/feel. It is very much in the realm of an electric guitar, and it reminds me most of my les paul. Guitar sounds really great too, with a nice round tone from a cedar top and mahogany body/neck. The pickguard logo is just protective plastic that has since been removed.

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:thu:

The 'F' series Taks are very nice stage acoustics!
 
Taylor Big Baby:
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Fender GDO500SE:
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And the best sounding, best playing one of the lot, a Fender Catalina:
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I've got the GDO strung up with Nashville tuning strings on it. Otherwise, I use it for live acoustic gigs since it has onboard tuner and electronics. The Catalina gets the call for all of my recording purposes.

The Taylor is just there if somebody shows up at the house and needs an acoustic guitar to play.

I really need to do some work on the Taylor. I just don't play it enough to really worry about it. I did play it at a campfire a couple of weeks ago and the truss rod is way out of adjustment on it, so the action was about 1/4" at the 12th fret. :(
 
Taylor Big Baby:
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Fender GDO500SE:
TopAngle1.jpg


And the best sounding, best playing one of the lot, a Fender Catalina:
POSSmall.jpeg


I've got the GDO strung up with Nashville tuning strings on it. Otherwise, I use it for live acoustic gigs since it has onboard tuner and electronics. The Catalina gets the call for all of my recording purposes.

The Taylor is just there if somebody shows up at the house and needs an acoustic guitar to play.

I really need to do some work on the Taylor. I just don't play it enough to really worry about it. I did play it at a campfire a couple of weeks ago and the truss rod is way out of adjustment on it, so the action was about 1/4" at the 12th fret. :(

I thought you had one more acoustic than that....:shrug:
 
I've got Mrs. P's old Epiphone, which is a black to orange sunburst. No pics of it though. It has had a cracked nut and funky saddle for as long as I've known Mrs. P. I did buy saddle and nut blanks a few months ago and roughed them out, but haven't got them finished yet. I think it'll sound really good once I get it all set up, though.
 
I've got Mrs. P's old Epiphone, which is a black to orange sunburst. No pics of it though. It has had a cracked nut and funky saddle for as long as I've known Mrs. P. I did buy saddle and nut blanks a few months ago and roughed them out, but haven't got them finished yet. I think it'll sound really good once I get it all set up, though.

Don't forget the 5th Avenue you want. :embarrassed:
 
Acoustics

1. Goodall RCJC (Rosewood Cutaway Jumbo Concert). Sitka Spruce over EI Rosewood B&S. K&K Sounds PWM Pup and preamp onboards.
2. Breedlove Focus Concert - Cedar top over EI Rosewood B&S. LR Baggs dual source onboard system (UST & condenser mic).
3. Rovere Orchestra Model - Custom built by luthier Dylan Rovere. Engelman Spruce top over Honduran Mahogany B&S. K&K Sounds PWM out to a belt clip K&K Pure Preamp.
4. Guild F-412. 1974 Jumbo 12 string. Spruce top over maple B&S. No electronics. Currently requires structural repair.
5. Yamaha CG-110CE. Classical cutaway with Yamaha onboards. Spruce over Nato B&S.

I prefer the smaller bodied acoustics. I started with dreadnaught and jumbo sizes and stayed with them many years. Then, when the smaller sizes became comparable in sound quality I switched. I have no preference for guitar make/model. I'll buy whatever sounds/plays good to me at the time I'm looking. Those "times" are always changing so I keep an open mind. Cosmetically, bling belongs on a woman. I prefer wood trim and little or no mother of toilet seat or other plastic. And, a huge killer: Any kind of burst on an acoustic. Sorry, I consider that ghetto graffiti-izing an acoustic. You don't paint acoustic guitars. That's reserved for electrics and I'm quite at home with it there.


Primarily a fingerstyle player, I prefer a 1-3/4" width at the nut and 2-1/4" spacing at the bridge. I won't buy a guitar with narrower spacing. Neck shape preference is the low oval or "modified C-shape". I can't abide V-shaped necks.

On 1,2 & 3 I keep D'Addario EJ-16s on. While I do admit EJ-17s are louder there's little difference in tone so why go the extra finger effort? On the Yamaha classical I use GHS string Set 2510. Classical guitars, in my experience, all have a weaker 3rd (G string) sound. Don't know why. The GHS Set 2510 has a wound 3rd that cures that problem. Plus, the windings are nickel steel so they never tarnish (corrode) and die like other alloys do. Their Set 2500 is also nickel steel with a plain nylon 3rd.

Currently use an older Fender Acoustasonic (SFX-HMF) amp but will be nixing it for a Fishman "fishstick". Also have an Ibanez IBZ10A 10 watt acoustic amp. Prefer to play unplugged and mic'd if possible/convenient.

Capo preference is the Shubb line of products. Everything else I've found hugely over-sized for what they do or gimmicky. Spring tension capos lose spring tension over time. One that comes close to good is the Planet waves NS but its current geometry isn't quite right for all neck shapes. It's also weak when used with .013s (EJ-17) unless clamped from the bottom-up direction. That puts the bulk of the capo in the way of the hand, though.

If I flatpick I'll use a Dunlop .58mm or equivalent. Not real fussy about flatpicks anymore. I am fussy about thumbpicks. I stay with Fred Kelly's Delrin Speed and Slick Picks in heavy gauge (orange). Typically, though, I'll use the blade of the thumbpick like most use a flatpick so it's rare that I need a flatpick.
 
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Well maybe they shouldn't be considered "acoustics" after what I've done to them...

Gifted to my guitar instructor (blown away - loves it - only guitar he keeps at home):
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Barrowed by my daugher's BF for college - studying music (used and loved a lot):
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2 on left were abused to destruction. The one on rt is w/ daughter:
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My personal 1st guitar, LR right hand, best I've ever played, esp with the amp (imho):
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Sold eBay - for about the parts costs:
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Never leaves its case - available for a good home/deal:
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Sold eBay - for about the parts costs:
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It looks more like a decepticon to me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Ellen, is that steel? Or a lot of cuts in the wood? I have the impression steel but IDK - don't see a big pan. What's its "tonishness" - like I might even know what that is?

EDIT: I googled it. Nice guitar!
 
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Here is my main rig. I saved up for this fall before last. Martin SPD-16TR. It is a 16 series Martin, but a really nice one, that made give up GAS'ing for any fancier ones than it. Gives me that low end throb and some high end sparkle, and makes me want to play. Above I am playing it to accompany my Dad. Probably "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" or something like that.

Here is a closer shot:

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It is strung with regular old Martin Lights at this point. Has no electronics at all.
 
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also doubles as a Transformer

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It looks more like a decepticon to me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I noteced that years ago, when I first saw a tricone resonator! :lol:

Hi Ellen, is that steel? Or a lot of cuts in the wood? I have the impression steel but IDK - don't see a big pan. What's its "tonishness" - like I might even know what that is?

EDIT: I googled it. Nice guitar!

The neck is wood, and joins the body at the 12th fret. The body is nickel plated bell brass. All resonators are basically mechanically driven speakers (made out of thin wall, spun aluminum) in the guitar body. They were developed by John Dopyera who is the founder of the National company, in the early 20s. Tricones (which mine is), are the first type develped, and have 3, inverted cones, with a T-brace connected to the apex of each cone. The t-brace is also connected to the bridge, and serves to transfer string vibration from the bridge, to the cones. They have this raspy ringing kind of tone to them. It sounds kind of haunting. A few of these have wood bodies, but most are either brass bodied like mine, or have painted sheet steel bodies.

The other two types of resonator guitars are of the single cone variety, and basically differ in how they drive the cone. John Dopyera wanted to market single cone resonators when he was still running National. The board of directors wouldn't let him, and voted him out of the company. So he started a new company with his brothers called the Dobro Company (Dobro is shorthand for Dopyera Brothers), in the late 1920s. Unlike the Nationals, the Drobros were, and are a bit different. A typical Dobro-style guitar has a wooden body. While the resonator cone (and its assembly) are still made out of aluminum, it's mounted the opposite way of a National-syle resonator - with the cone facing outward from the guitar body (instead of downward) - like a speaker in a stereo enclosure. Now, this creates some problems with how to drive the cone, since the apex of the cone is away from the bridge. John got around that problem in a unique manner - by driving the rim of the cone instead! This was done by creating what is called a spider bridge. In a nutshell this is a spider web-type assembly, with the ends of the web, contacting the rim of the cone. The bridge sits on a platform in the center of the web, transferring string vibrations via the web, to the rim of the cone. Spider bridge resonators, have this sort of honky, midrangey tone, and as a result, are not only liked by acoustic blues players, but also bluegrass players (especially lap steel bluegrass players like Jerry Douglas).

Now, as I said, there are two types of single cone resonator guitars. The other type is basically a resonator guitar in its simplest form, and was developed by National around the same time as the Dobros, to sort of steal John Dopyera's thunder. These single cones (often called Duolians, or Triolians in their earliest forms), use an inverted, large, single cone. The bridge is put on a biscuit shaped mounting assembly (hence, giving guitars of this type, the classification of biscuit bridged resonators), which is mounted directly to the apex of the cone. They have a very brash, popping, percussive sound that is very popular with blues players (especially those of the gutbucket slide variety). Body materials for single cone , biscuit bridge resos vary. Some (such as the majority of those made by National) have plated brass or painted steel bodies, but quite a few have wooden bodies.

Tri-Cone Assembly
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Spider Bridge Assembly
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Biscuit Bridge Assembly
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Here's a website that goes into some further explanation of resonator guitars:

http://www.acousticfingerstyle.com/ResonatorsExplained.htm


Here's some clips of each type

Tricone:


Dobro/Spider Bridge


Biscuit Bridge
 
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If you guys would like me to, I'll make some clips of my Republic Tricone in action, tonight after I get home from work, and helping out at the animal shelter. Let me know.
 
If you guys would like me to, I'll make some clips of my Republic Tricone in action, tonight after I get home from work, and helping out at the animal shelter. Let me know.

I would enjoy seeing ANYTHING from you on youtube Ellen (IDK if you've got vids out there already?). Also, I never realized the "speaker cone" aspect of how these were developed - the only resonators I've really tried were just something to try in a guitar store. Rather big-sound and very heavy - specialized tone - so I could see the desire but the $ and other choices... never went for it all the way.

And yea that looks like a very nice guitar!
 
My kid's Ovation. It was cheap, sounds good plugged in and plays easily. That's about all I can say about it. Totally meh.
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My kid's Ibby AC30NT. This thing is a freak. We got it new for like $250, but it was the best sounding guitar in the store for under a grand. These are still made and I pick em up every time I see one, but none I've tried come close to this one. I'll never understand why this happens, but I'm happy it did. It's a beautiful sounding guitar. Mystery mahogany laminate body, solid spruce top.
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This is my Godin 5th Avenue. Yeah, it's all plywood but it has that nice percussive chunky sound to it and I dig it. New ebony bridge with bone sadlle helped it a lot. The laminate construction makes it darn near impervious to weather changes. Stays in tune forever.
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Dad's old Silvertone. This was a total basket case when I got it and required a complete rebuild. Looks like hell, but it plays well and sounds terrific.
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EG
 
Elliot - the resonator was an early attempt at making guitars louder to keep up with a band. electronics eventually took over, but they're a really cool stitch in time that has endured.

Elias - does your Godin keep up with the Gibson? how do they differ?
 
Ellen, It's cool to meet another resonator enthusiast. I'd love to hear your tricone. I'd post clips of mine, but I don't have anything to record it with except and iPhone or a Mac laptop.
 
Elliot - the resonator was an early attempt at making guitars louder to keep up with a band. electronics eventually took over, but they're a really cool stitch in time that has endured.

Elias - does your Godin keep up with the Gibson? how do they differ?

Gibson? You mean the Silvertone?
They are very different.
The Silvertone has a giant neck, while the Godin's is quite slim.
Size-wise, the Silvertone is a bit bigger.
Volume,the 5th Avenue does well with the bridge upgrade (and proper fitting of bridge) but the Silvertone is LOUD.
The sound of both is fairly midrange heavy, as is typical on archtops. The 5th Avenue is much more percussive, less sustain and has a stronger fundamental tone, while the Silvertone has a lot more going on in terms of overtones. It's a more complex sounding guitar. Likely the solid spruce top vs the laminate.
The Godin will stay intune longer, though the Silvertone is about onpar with most other solid top acoustics. Again, the playwood doesn't expand and contract much.
I'd say the Godin has an edge in terms of playablility...it has new frets and a nice level fretboard, while the Silvertone has some good gouges worn in the board at the first position and the frets are worn. With the reset neck, I can keep the action on the Silvertone about as low as I like it. The action on the Godin will go as low as you want it. I had it shredder low for a while but have since raised it some, as archtops respond well to a heavy hand. They require some serious vibration to get the top moving.

EG
 
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