Denverdave
Resident Ragamuffin
Yowza.....I have run on that trail. More than once. Parts of it are not far from my house. That would not hurt a runner anywhere near as much due to the much lower speeds, but still. Assholes....
The Biking Thread
- Thread starter Mark Wein
- Start date
Yowza.....I have run on that trail. More than once. Parts of it are not far from my house. That would not hurt a runner anywhere near as much due to the much lower speeds, but still. Assholes....
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
My Santa Cruz 29er has a front thru-axle. Not sure I can tell the difference. I was aware of my previous mountain bike having some flex in the front wheel when bombing down fireroads at 40 mph+ but it never really slowed me down or affected my ride. When your front wheel is stiffer, you're just more aware of when your tire is loosing grip on the trail.
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
So I got in two more good training rides this weekend. It's a slow uphill battle, but I already registered a faster time on my climbing ride this week than I did last week. I usually judge my fitness/leg strength by the gears I can do this climb comfortably in (of course different grades in different sections, but I know the gears I use when I'm my most fit).
The other thing is the endorphin rush you get after a hard effort. When you haven't been doing high intensity rides you forget what that feeling is like. You have to suffer to get it. But when I get home I'm like, "man life is good, I feel good, why did I ever stop riding?"
On my Saturday climbing ride I was just going my natural pace, just pushing a bit above comfortable. There was another guy up the hill going his pace, who I finally caught and was about to pass when all of a sudden he accelerates. Nothing more irritating. I just backed off and continued to follow him up the climb as I didn't want him half-wheeling me the entire remainder of the climb. Before the top he was spent as he had to up his natural pace to stay ahead of me, and I easily passed him before the summit as I had energy reserves from going slower behind him. Immature games we play on the road with other people, but sometimes educational for racing strategies. We did have a friendly exchange afterwards. I always like having friendly conversations with other cyclists. Some don't respond, and then I'll say "I SAID HI!" just for fun.
I think I'm dropping some weight also. I need to start weighing myself and monitoring that. It's going to all come together by this summer.
The other thing is the endorphin rush you get after a hard effort. When you haven't been doing high intensity rides you forget what that feeling is like. You have to suffer to get it. But when I get home I'm like, "man life is good, I feel good, why did I ever stop riding?"
On my Saturday climbing ride I was just going my natural pace, just pushing a bit above comfortable. There was another guy up the hill going his pace, who I finally caught and was about to pass when all of a sudden he accelerates. Nothing more irritating. I just backed off and continued to follow him up the climb as I didn't want him half-wheeling me the entire remainder of the climb. Before the top he was spent as he had to up his natural pace to stay ahead of me, and I easily passed him before the summit as I had energy reserves from going slower behind him. Immature games we play on the road with other people, but sometimes educational for racing strategies. We did have a friendly exchange afterwards. I always like having friendly conversations with other cyclists. Some don't respond, and then I'll say "I SAID HI!" just for fun.
I think I'm dropping some weight also. I need to start weighing myself and monitoring that. It's going to all come together by this summer.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
@rickenvox , awesome!
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Been back on my Whole Life Challenge thing with improved diet, exercise, sleep, hydration, etc., monitored for 6 weeks. First week was good, and got some riding in. Low pedal pressure right now, but back on the bike, and some initial winter weight loss as well. Easter Day was a blow off day in terms of diet, and just got a walk in. But hoping for a good cycling and fitness year this year.
nuke_diver
Riding Solo
I never understood why you bikers did that. I guess if you are a racer maybe it makes sense to you but I never got it. It happens to me all the time since I always ride alone...I'll pass someone who's going slower than me then 10 sec later they are on my wheel and passing me once they get 100' ahead they slow back down to that pace that is slower than mine...
For me it's pass me and stay ahead or don't bother passing me at all. Personally if you are a racer go find other racers and, you know, race. I also have noticed too that road cyclists at least tend to be a rather surly lot. I often say good morning when I pass someone but only get a response back about 20-30% of the time I'd say. I have stopped saying anything to the guys that have the earbuds in though.I'm sure you'll drop weight. Unfortunately for me I can never judge my leg strength by the gears I can ride it. I can only go as fast/hard as my knees let me. My next bike is going to have lower gears for sure.
BTW any of you guys have an opinion on Mechanical vs Hydraulic disc brakes. I've done the reading and mostly it says hydraulic are better but more expensive (that always seems the way). But it is really that different to justify the 2-3X cost difference (at least that's what it looks like)?
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
I'll have to check that out (Whole Life Challenge).
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
It is a useful tool, but I stop short of making it a religion. I was getting too many emails about upgrades or buy this or that, but emailed back that I did not want them, and that stopped.
This is the third time I have done it, and it just serves as a decent motivation to be mindful and keep track of what I am doing day to day, to see if I like my habits or want to shift course somewhere. I like how wholistic it is.
https://www.wholelifechallenge.com
Tig
Fucktangular
Hydraulic brakes will have more stopping power and a better modulation than cable, but more of a hassle to maintain. I still have a set of cable brakes on my single speed MTB, but will replace them with hydraulic since they are really old now and suck even after new pads.I never understood why you bikers did that. I guess if you are a racer maybe it makes sense to you but I never got it. It happens to me all the time since I always ride alone...I'll pass someone who's going slower than me then 10 sec later they are on my wheel and passing me once they get 100' ahead they slow back down to that pace that is slower than mine...
I'm sure you'll drop weight. Unfortunately for me I can never judge my leg strength by the gears I can ride it. I can only go as fast/hard as my knees let me. My next bike is going to have lower gears for sure.
BTW any of you guys have an opinion on Mechanical vs Hydraulic disc brakes. I've done the reading and mostly it says hydraulic are better but more expensive (that always seems the way). But it is really that different to justify the 2-3X cost difference (at least that's what it looks like)?
My road/CX/gravel bike has hybrid brakes, as in they are cable actuated (work with any cable road bike shifter or MTB brake lever) but use hydraulic calipers. They still don't have the power of hydraulic, but work better than cable brakes.
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
I keep a pretty consistent RPM when climbing and compare the gears I'm using only on climbs that I do frequently and have been doing for years. I pretty much know what gear I've used in the past in racing fitness, off-season fitness, and out of shape in each little section. Where I go out of saddle and where I don't. I don't have a power meter, which would be the most accurate measure, but this works for comparative fitness. You have to have some discipline in your cadence though.
Basically if you're on a steep climb on a road bike you're mostly in your small ring up front which is a 39 for me. So you're only tracking your rear gears, which in the old days a 23 would have been my lowest gear in the rear, but nowadays it's a 25 (which I try to never use, but it comes in handy when you're out of shape). So if I'm using my 23 today in a particular steep section I remember being able to spin the same RPMs in my 17 when I was in racing shape, and 19 when I was just overall fit. Of course when I was racing I was a stick figure.
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rickenvox
Animal Psychic
Hydraulic brakes will have more stopping power and a better modulation than cable, but more of a hassle to maintain. I still have a set of cable brakes on my single speed MTB, but will replace them with hydraulic since they are really old now and suck even after new pads.
My road/CX/gravel bike has hybrid brakes, as in they are cable actuated (work with any cable road bike shifter or MTB brake lever) but use hydraulic calipers. They still don't have the power of hydraulic, but work better than cable brakes.
Slicks for road? Do you use light knobbies too?
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sunvalleylaw
Yep.
There are days when I am just in my own zone, and do what I want to go my own pace. But sometimes if I am amped up from work or for whatever reason, if I see someone in front of me, I want to try and pass them. More on the road than on single track on a trail, which is harder anyway. And has more risk for all involved if there is limited room.I never understood why you bikers did that. I guess if you are a racer maybe it makes sense to you but I never got it. It happens to me all the time since I always ride alone...I'll pass someone who's going slower than me then 10 sec later they are on my wheel and passing me once they get 100' ahead they slow back down to that pace that is slower than mine...
I'm sure you'll drop weight. Unfortunately for me I can never judge my leg strength by the gears I can ride it. I can only go as fast/hard as my knees let me. My next bike is going to have lower gears for sure.
BTW any of you guys have an opinion on Mechanical vs Hydraulic disc brakes. I've done the reading and mostly it says hydraulic are better but more expensive (that always seems the way). But it is really that different to justify the 2-3X cost difference (at least that's what it looks like)?
I think "real" racers, especially with experience, would likely stick to whatever training or racing goal that had that day. At least good ones. @Tig can say. I think normally it is the Wallys that think they are strong riders or something that play games out on the road or have more of the poor behavior. Based on my experience.
WRT mechanical vs. hydraulic, for just riding around, if you can find good mechanical, I am sure those are fine. Better stopping power, better performance with hydraulic, but more maintenance also. In MTB world, I think Shimano SLX brakes are a good standard for most of us. I don't know hydraulic road or gravel brakes, (EDIT: looking at @Tig 's bike, looks like 105 which to me is Shimano's road equivalent to SLX, is a good place to be. I would stay away from AVID hydraulic.)as all those bikes I have are old fashioned manual rim brakes. Less desired, and not sold much any more on decent bikes anyway.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Also basically what Tig said.Hydraulic brakes will have more stopping power and a better modulation than cable, but more of a hassle to maintain. I still have a set of cable brakes on my single speed MTB, but will replace them with hydraulic since they are really old now and suck even after new pads.
My road/CX/gravel bike has hybrid brakes, as in they are cable actuated (work with any cable road bike shifter or MTB brake lever) but use hydraulic calipers. They still don't have the power of hydraulic, but work better than cable brakes.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
I would think slicks are pretty common for road bikes in dry areas. There are lots and lots of tires with various commuter, touring, light gravel, wet conditions, etc. tread. More tread usually means more rolling resistance. But if is wet where you are, or you want to go on the dirt, something with a little tread doesn't hurt much. On my commuter, that I also use on dirt roads and gravel, I use Clement X'plore USH with a solid band in the middle for rolling straight on pavement with low rolling resistance, and nubbies on the side for traction if I am turning. Lots of such variations amongst the common manufacturers.
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Tig
Fucktangular
These were old photos, but I use slick road tires most of the time, 28mm or 32mm Gatorskins during the winter and 25mm Conti GP 4000 S2's the rest of the year.
For gravel, 40mm Maxxis Ramblers. For CX, depending on the course surface and conditions, either 33mm Clement LAS (grass and hard pack) or Maxxis Mud Wrestlers.
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sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Here are my "ruff and tuff" Clements that roll great on pavement, but are tough enough and have enough traction for gravel/dirt road use. Not light. I have some lighter touring tires that can work on gravel/dirt a little on my Davidson touring bike at home. Also Clement. I will post a pic of those also. A little lighter, and a little less tread. This tread on the shoulders are called "diamonds." The tires are a size 35 and I typically run them around 65 lbs of pressure, though sometimes around 80 in the rear if I am carrying a lot and the rear of the bike is really heavy. So I don't pinch.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Tig
Fucktangular
He was asking about the tires I had in the two photos I posted earlier today.
You didn't miss any newer photos.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
We shall entitle this post "Various Tires in My Garage."
My road tires. Not slicks but still roll well. Vittoria Rubino Pros. 25c.
(hmm, that bike is still dirty from the other day, need to clean that.)
My more cushy tires on my old classic touring bike. I wanted gumwalls. Clement Stradas. 32 width. Some tread. Can do some light gravel or dirt road, but I wouldn't push it. Panaracer Paselas might be in a similar category.
Got this front tire on my mountain bike last season, anti will get probably replaced early season. Maxxis Minion 2.5
The original Maxxis Ardent front 2.4 that got moved to the rear when I got the new front. It is starting to bleed tire goo (tubeless). Will need to be replaced.
Contis not too far off what @Tig might run in the rain. though a cheaper version, and old. My wife doesn't ride this bike often, and I would replace them before she really did any riding this year. They look stiff and a bit brittle. She didn't ride the bike at all last year, just her mountain bike. But shows another tread pattern.
My road tires. Not slicks but still roll well. Vittoria Rubino Pros. 25c.
(hmm, that bike is still dirty from the other day, need to clean that.)
My more cushy tires on my old classic touring bike. I wanted gumwalls. Clement Stradas. 32 width. Some tread. Can do some light gravel or dirt road, but I wouldn't push it. Panaracer Paselas might be in a similar category.
Got this front tire on my mountain bike last season, anti will get probably replaced early season. Maxxis Minion 2.5
The original Maxxis Ardent front 2.4 that got moved to the rear when I got the new front. It is starting to bleed tire goo (tubeless). Will need to be replaced.
Contis not too far off what @Tig might run in the rain. though a cheaper version, and old. My wife doesn't ride this bike often, and I would replace them before she really did any riding this year. They look stiff and a bit brittle. She didn't ride the bike at all last year, just her mountain bike. But shows another tread pattern.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
First ride on any dirt (at least in this hemisphere this year. Not too far, as only a bit of the trail is open and ready so far.
