Gretsch Lovers

[jrockbridge]

I may possibly have the screws you need, but they're not special screws at all. As long as you get the correct thread your local hardware store should have them. Those would be metric.

That said, you could always upgrade the bridge on the cheap, too. I just put this bridge on my Harley Benton since the stock bridge was a bit buzzy and had the dreaded lean. For under $20 shipped with tax it gives you individual saddle adjustment, but getting longer screws for your current bridge will probably cost you a $1.

It would seem that my Gretsch fingerboard radius is 12" like a Gibson. Would a pigtail style, adjustable wraparound made to fit Gibson work on a Gretsch?

 

[GilmourD]

Technically, since I'm adding the trapeze tailpiece, I can replace the wraparound with any bridge that will fit and has grooves in the saddles. It no longer needs to be a wraparound.

I was originally thinking, I would simply start the strings at the trapeze tailpiece, tuck the strings under the bridge, thread them through the holes and wrap them around like usual. So, the trapeze would simply be there for looks. However, since the trapeze is going on anyway, it may as well serve its proper function. I should be able to pass the strings over the top of a standard adjustable bridge similar to what's on an LP.

The part I'd worry about is the bridge sliding back since it won't have string tension pulling it. You'd want to upgrade to a locking bridge like a TonePros, then, which is adding more cost than I think you may be thinking about.

That's if we're still talking about the Jet with the LP Jr/Special-type bridge.

 

[jrockbridge]

The part I'd worry about is the bridge sliding back since it won't have string tension pulling it. You'd want to upgrade to a locking bridge like a TonePros, then, which is adding more cost than I think you may be thinking about.

That's if we're still talking about the Jet with the LP Jr/Special-type bridge.

I’m going to have to stick with a wraparound bridge because of fit. Will a Gibson style wraparound bridges will fit Gretsch?

If I can find longer screws, the stock bridge may work ok. But, the pigtail style adjustable wraparound bridges are cheap enough. They all say they’ll fit Gibson. If that also means they’ll also fit Gretsch, I favor getting one of those as a best solution.

 

[Pine Apple Slim]

The issue with the trapeze, besides fiiguring out the bridge issue, is neck angle. There won’t be enough downward pressure unless you shim the neck to a steeper angle.

I’d just get some longer screws for the stock wrap around instead of hunting everywhere for an aftermarket that’s basically the same thing. Or just keep it adjusted with the old string end and fuggetaboutit. If it works it works and it’s not a visual issue.

That said the critical measurement is the distance between the posts. It will be a metic measurement, good luck.

 

[GilmourD]

I’m going to have to stick with a wraparound bridge because of fit. Will a Gibson style wraparound bridges will fit Gretsch?

If I can find longer screws, the stock bridge may work ok. But, the pigtail style adjustable wraparound bridges are cheap enough. They all say they’ll fit Gibson. If that also means they’ll also fit Gretsch, I favor getting one of those as a best solution.

Just make sure you order the metric version. The one I linked to above will fit nicely and give you individual saddle adjustment, too.

 

[jrockbridge]

Just make sure you order the metric version. The one I linked to above will fit nicely and give you individual saddle adjustment, too.

Ok. I just ordered that bridge. Thanks.

When I received this cheap Gretsch, the action was so high that I had doubts it would work out for me. But, I adjusted the truss rod, the bridge, action, string scale-length (intonation), etc. Eventually, I dialed it in close to a perfect player. Even with the intonation slightly off, it sounds good in the neck and middle positions. After achieving a good setup, I started looking into the Blacktop bridge pup and Gibson-style mounting plate.

It's a nice looking guitar with the faux binding on the neck and body. I like the mint green with sparkles paint job. The fret work is good. It stays in tune. Just that big empty space after the bridge looks odd to me. A Bigsby would make it look really nice and would be fun to play. At this point, I can't justify a Bigsby and I have never installed one.

I think the trapeze tailpiece will make it look more aesthetically pleasing even though it will serve no real function. It will actually make stringing the guitar slightly more complicated because the strings will need to go from the trapeze, under the bridge, through the holes, wraparound and over the saddles. But, that's the great thing about modifying a cheap guitar. I can do whatever I want and not worry about reducing the value of a pricey guitar.

 

[GilmourD]

Ok. I just ordered that bridge. Thanks.

Awesome. Just so you know, you don't have to pull the bushings out of the body or anything. The included studs should screw into the bushings already installed.

When I received this cheap Gretsch, the action was so high that I had doubts it would work out for me. But, I adjusted the truss rod, the bridge, action, string scale-length (intonation), etc. Eventually, I dialed it in close to a perfect player. Even with the intonation slightly off, it sounds good in the neck and middle positions. After achieving a good setup, I started looking into the Blacktop bridge pup and Gibson-style mounting plate.

Honestly, I think most guitars these days are pushed out of the factory with just enough of a setup that it's not going to buzz no matter what. There's probably more returns for buzzing from beginners than for high action (which absurdly is something that seems to be accepted if not expected). I've played Gibsons fresh out of the box that you could fit a forklift between the strings and fretboard.

It's a nice looking guitar with the faux binding on the neck and body. I like the mint green with sparkles paint job. The fret work is good. It stays in tune. Just that big empty space after the bridge looks odd to me. A Bigsby would make it look really nice and would be fun to play. At this point, I can't justify a Bigsby and I have never installed one.

I think the trapeze tailpiece will make it look more aesthetically pleasing even though it will serve no real function. It will actually make stringing the guitar slightly more complicated because the strings will need to go from the trapeze, under the bridge, through the holes, wraparound and over the saddles. But, that's the great thing about modifying a cheap guitar. I can do whatever I want and not worry about reducing the value of a pricey guitar.

That's how I felt about my G5220. So I got a Vibramate V7, a Bigsby B7, and a Reverend spring.

 

[jrockbridge]

Awesome. Just so you know, you don't have to pull the bushings out of the body or anything. The included studs should screw into the bushings already installed.

Honestly, I think most guitars these days are pushed out of the factory with just enough of a setup that it's not going to buzz no matter what. There's probably more returns for buzzing from beginners than for high action (which absurdly is something that seems to be accepted if not expected). I've played Gibsons fresh out of the box that you could fit a forklift between the strings and fretboard.

That's how I felt about my G5220. So I got a Vibramate V7, a Bigsby B7, and a Reverend spring.

Thanks again. The pigtail-style supplied studs screwed into the OEM bushings. However, once the studs were installed, the pigtail bridge did not easily slide onto the studs. Perhaps, carefully applied lube and some force would have worked as a remedy but I took a different approach.

When the pigtail bridge piece would not slide onto the pigtail stud posts, I unscrewed them, slid them into place with the pigtail wraparound, placed the two studs and bridge over the bushing thread holes in the body, and slowly screwed each side into place while I held the bridge against the stud posts with my thumb.

It’s a nice tight fit without any bridge lean. I took a quick phone pic with the OEM wraparound next to the installed, adjustable pigtail.

 

[jrockbridge]

Here is the mint green, w/ sparkles, Gretsch G2215-P90, Streamliner Junior, Jet Club with modifications including, Crème TV Jones, Gibson-style bridge pickup, mounting ring, Chrome Gretsch, Blacktop Filtertron, bridge pickup, chrome Pigtail-style, wraparound bridge (w/ adjustable saddles) and a chrome trapeze tailpiece.

Five of the string ends hook into the trapeze tailpiece, wrap under the bridge, through the holes, over the saddles and up the neck to the nut and headstock tuners. I tried wrapping the low e-string the same way, through the trapeze but it kept going flat. Since it did not do that before the trapeze, I thought that might be the issue. So, I wrapped the low e-string only around the pigtail bridge and that solved the problem. Go figure. The other strings stay in tune stable fed through the trapeze.

The trapeze is just for the look. It stands against the body on two clear, rubber feet which you can see in one of the pics. I was a little bit worried that I was making stringing too complicated, all for a look, but it worked out great. The ring ends of the strings pass under the pigtail and under the trapeze when putting on strings, which makes the process a piece of cake. I did not plan for it. I simply got lucky.

If you look very close at the pigtail bridge in the pics, you may notice a small black square on the b-string saddle of the bridge. That’s a thin square of paper. I use very light strings, 9’s in this case. The b-string made a pinging sound. I tried every adjustment to get it to stop but nothing worked. I tried a small piece of paper in the nut slot which did not help. Then, I tried it in the bridge saddle and it fixed it. Info on the web states that this indicates the bridge needs to be raised. I tried raising the bridge without the piece of paper on the saddle with no luck. So, I lowered the bridge back down and put the piece of paper back in place. My guess is that the light b-string is so small that the saddle slot is too large causing the string ping or sizzle. The paper works, it feels and sounds great, so I’m cool with it.

The Blacktop bridge pickup sounds great with more jangle and chime than any of my other guitars. I’m excited to get a pair of gold Blacktop Filtertron pups in my used Gretsch-Streamliner, hollow body.

The P90 neck and Blacktop bridge pups both sound great separately, but they are an output mismatch on this mint green, Gretsch. Also, the middle position sounds out of phase which is odd since the Gretsch pickup wires are color coded the same. I’m going to pull the P-90 pup out and try a few things with the magnets to see if I can tweak a compromise.

I’m happy with the way it’s worked out. There’s more than one way to balance out the two pups. I know I’ll tweak it to perfection in the end.

I forgot to take a “before” pic. So, here’s a stock “before” from the web….

After mods….

 

[jrockbridge]

Since, it was not easy to get that Blacktop pup down into that tight, bridge cavity, I did not want to pull that pup out to flip the phase. Instead, I reversed the phase at the switch. The 2 pups are now in-phase.

I could not get the P90 to come out of the neck pup cavity, to flip the magnet (reverse the phase) and remove one of the magnets to reduce output. I unscrewed everything and applied force. It would not budge. It’s as if it was glued in place.

Plan B for reducing the P90 output is a trim pot and a treble bleed. It looks as if there is just enough room in the switch cavity to make it work.

 

[Bob411]

Since, it was not easy to get that Blacktop pup down into that tight, bridge cavity, I did not want to pull that pup out to flip the phase. Instead, I reversed the phase at the switch. The 2 pups are now in-phase.

I could not get the P90 to come out of the neck pup cavity, to flip the magnet (reverse the phase) and remove one of the magnets to reduce output. I unscrewed everything and applied force. It would not budge. It’s as if it was glued in place.

Plan B for reducing the P90 output is a trim pot and a treble bleed. It looks as if there is just enough room in the switch cavity to make it work.

Can the P90 go in more?

 

[jrockbridge]

Can the P90 go in more?

No. That's the first thing I tried, lowering the P90. Then, I tried lowering the pole pieces. However, the two mounting screws would not go down any farther, so the strings close to those mounting screws of the P90 were louder than the strings with lowered pole pieces.

My next idea was to pull out the P90, flip the magnets around to reverse the phase. Then, I was going to remove one of the magnets to lower output and see how that sounded. But, that P90 will not move. So, actually, I'm NOT moving to Plan B. It's now Plan C.

The trim pot and treble bleed should work. And, it's probably the best way to reduce the P90 output to better match the bridge pup because it's an adjustable mod once it's soldered into place.

 

[GilmourD]

Here is the mint green, w/ sparkles, Gretsch G2215-P90, Streamliner Junior, Jet Club with modifications including, Crème TV Jones, Gibson-style bridge pickup, mounting ring, Chrome Gretsch, Blacktop Filtertron, bridge pickup, chrome Pigtail-style, wraparound bridge (w/ adjustable saddles) and a chrome trapeze tailpiece.

Five of the string ends hook into the trapeze tailpiece, wrap under the bridge, through the holes, over the saddles and up the neck to the nut and headstock tuners. I tried wrapping the low e-string the same way, through the trapeze but it kept going flat. Since it did not do that before the trapeze, I thought that might be the issue. So, I wrapped the low e-string only around the pigtail bridge and that solved the problem. Go figure. The other strings stay in tune stable fed through the trapeze.

The trapeze is just for the look. It stands against the body on two clear, rubber feet which you can see in one of the pics. I was a little bit worried that I was making stringing too complicated, all for a look, but it worked out great. The ring ends of the strings pass under the pigtail and under the trapeze when putting on strings, which makes the process a piece of cake. I did not plan for it. I simply got lucky.

If you look very close at the trapeze bridge in the pics, you may notice a small black square on the b-string saddle of the bridge. That’s a thin square of paper. I use very light strings, 9’s in this case. The b-string made a pinging sound. I tried every adjustment to get it to stop but nothing worked. I tried a small piece of paper in the nut slot which did not help. Then, I tried it in the bridge saddle and it fixed it. Info on the web states that this indicates the bridge needs to be raised. I tried raising the bridge without the piece of paper on the saddle with no luck. So, I lowered the bridge back down and put the piece of paper back in place. My guess is that the light b-string is so small that the saddle slot is too large causing the string ping or sizzle. The paper works, it feels and sounds great, so I’m cool with it.

The Blacktop bridge pickup sounds great with more jangle and chime than any of my other guitars. I’m excited to get a pair of gold Blacktop Filtertron pups in my used Gretsch-Streamliner, hollow body.

The P90 neck and Blacktop bridge pups both sound great separately, but they are an output mismatch on this mint green, Gretsch. Also, the middle position sounds out of phase which is odd since the Gretsch pickup wires are color coded the same. I’m going to pull the P-90 pup out and try a few things with the magnets to see if I can tweak a compromise.

I’m happy with the way it’s worked out. There’s more than one way to balance out the two pups. I know I’ll tweak it to perfection in the end.

I forgot to take a “before” pic. So, here’s a stock “before” from the web….
View attachment 101765

After mods….
View attachment 101766
View attachment 101767
View attachment 101768
View attachment 101769
View attachment 101770

Nice! I dig it!

So odd that you can't get the P90 out. I wonder if the cover stuck to the finish inside the cavity somehow. I'd probably remove the mounting screws and then try gently putting a plastic putty knife or something between the cover and the sides of the route to see if that makes anything move.

 

[Bob411]

I have a First Act Sheena. P90 in neck and humbucker in bridge. Humbucker has a lot more output. I never gave it more thought because, it made sense to me that a humbucker would be louder than a single coil. But, now, you are having to tame your P90. Are the Gretch pickups just really low output?

 

[jrockbridge]

Nice! I dig it!

So odd that you can't get the P90 out. I wonder if the cover stuck to the finish inside the cavity somehow. I'd probably remove the mounting screws and then try gently putting a plastic putty knife or something between the cover and the sides of the route to see if that makes anything move.

I actually did try what you are suggesting. I used a box cutter because it uses a thin razor blade. I suspect that the finish glued the P90 in place. I could not easily get the razor blade tip through the gaps. I would have had to cut away a lot of finish to dig that P90 out. I decided to abandon that plan for the trim pot and treble bleed.

I have a First Act Sheena. P90 in neck and humbucker in bridge. Humbucker has a lot more output. I never gave it more thought because, it made sense to me that a humbucker would be louder than a single coil. But, now, you are having to tame your P90. Are the Gretch pickups just really low output?

The Gretsch Blacktop Filtertron bridge pup is lower output than the Broad’Tron BT-2S that came stock in the guitar. I thought the P90 in the neck position sounded good stock and the middle position with P90 and BT-2S together was decent. But, I did not care for the stock bridge position by itself.

I considered leaving the guitar pickups stock and simply using the neck and middle positions. But, the stock guitar did not truly sound very Gretsch to me. So, I ordered the chrome Blacktop FT. I’m really glad I did.

 

[GilmourD]

Just so you know, recommended pickup height for Filtertrons is much closer to the strings than the human eye thinks looks right. Crank that up there and see what happens.

 

[jrockbridge]

Just so you know, recommended pickup height for Filtertrons is much closer to the strings than the human eye thinks looks right. Crank that up there and see what happens.

No. I'm not going to crank up the height of the bridge pickup to try to match the output of the neck pup. I've already found the sweet spot for the bridge Blacktop pup and it sounds great. I already determined that moving it closer made it sound less than great.

 

[jrockbridge]

I don’t know what I was thinking trying to use a tiny little micro-sized trim pot to reduce output on the neck pickup. I could not figure out how to solder that miniature component. I would have needed a tiny little board, or something similar to pull that off.

In hindsight, I should have bought one of those smaller pots you find in many low end guitars. But, I had a brand new, full size, 500K CTS pot in my parts bin, so I decided to see if I could fit that in there.

The first time I shoved it down in there, I broke off an OEM wire to the switch. I pulled it all out, soldered that wire back. The second time I pointed the pot down the cavity, crammed it in there, everything worked without incident. It’s a very tight fit.

500K CTS, trim pot with Kinman-style treble bleed to reduce the P90 output. It sounds great. The pickups sound well matched now. Done!

 

[Jbird]

Only Gretsch I really liked was a Malcolm Young model I tried at Woodwinds & Brasswinds years ago. Had excellent playability. But was something like $1600. Or $1800, something like that...

 

[jrockbridge]

Only Gretsch I really liked was a Malcolm Young model I tried at Woodwinds & Brasswinds years ago. Had excellent playability. But was something like $1600. Or $1800, something like that...

Apparently, removing that neck pup increases the value...