The Bicycle / Biking Gear Thread

[nuke_diver]

And to start the new bike out right I managed to put a cotter pin through the back tire. Went over 8K miles with the old bike without any problems and didn't even get 100 miles in on the new one. Still made it home without flatting, got to love tubeless tires. I never had such a big puncture on a bike with tubeless tires. I pulled the pin out and squirted sealant all over the garage. I now know to reduce the pressure BEFORE pulling out a foreign object, The hole does seem to be sealed now though. Will check again in the morning to be sure it's holding air ok

 

[Tig]

@nuke_diver If I was looking for a steel road bike frame with rim brakes:
(Or maybe a steel Gios or Cinelli)

Ritchey Road Logic Frameset / Steel Road Bike

Improved road tire clearance, double butted Logic tubing, carbon straight steerer fork. Classic steel road bike geometry. Official Ritchey Online Store.

ritcheylogic.com

 

[Lerxst]

Figured I don't already have enough ways to damage myself so I decided it was time to get back into some mountain biking. An "inexpensive" polygon coming my way.

 

[nuke_diver]

@nuke_diver If I was looking for a steel road bike frame with rim brakes:
(Or maybe a steel Gios or Cinelli)

Ritchey Road Logic Frameset / Steel Road Bike

Improved road tire clearance, double butted Logic tubing, carbon straight steerer fork. Classic steel road bike geometry. Official Ritchey Online Store.

ritcheylogic.com

Not sure what I'm going to do yet, need to see what the bike shop says and what the insurance company will do. This is my old bike from the early 80's that was in the accident with a car when they pulled out in front of me (yes they had a stop sign so complete fault there). At first I only thought the front fork was bent but when I took in into the BS to be evaluated I noticed only then that where the tubes connect to the head tube the metal was wrinkled. So clearly I hit it a lot harder than I thought (since I wasn't that badly damaged ). I used that bike for commuting and since retiring use it to go to the gym since it has flat pedals and is less likely to be stolen than a shiny new bike. But evaluating the value of such an old bike is tough. It's got good components, for 1981 . What I am now hoping for is that the BS will say something like it would cost 1K to fix (there are a few places around that will fix old steel frames) and the insurance company will give me a grand and I'll go and get something that works for me. The insurance is getting off easy IMO since it could have easily been a new bike would several thousand. But we'll see

 

[Andrew Sak]

Not sure what I'm going to do yet, need to see what the bike shop says and what the insurance company will do. This is my old bike from the early 80's that was in the accident with a car when they pulled out in front of me (yes they had a stop sign so complete fault there). At first I only thought the front fork was bent but when I took in into the BS to be evaluated I noticed only then that where the tubes connect to the head tube the metal was wrinkled. So clearly I hit it a lot harder than I thought (since I wasn't that badly damaged ). I used that bike for commuting and since retiring use it to go to the gym since it has flat pedals and is less likely to be stolen than a shiny new bike. But evaluating the value of such an old bike is tough. It's got good components, for 1981 . What I am now hoping for is that the BS will say something like it would cost 1K to fix (there are a few places around that will fix old steel frames) and the insurance company will give me a grand and I'll go and get something that works for me. The insurance is getting off easy IMO since it could have easily been a new bike would several thousand. But we'll see

You should not be getting jipped on damages to your bike on an accident that wasn't your fault. I hope everything works out in your favor.

 

[nuke_diver]

You should not be getting jipped on damages to your bike on an accident that wasn't your fault. I hope everything works out in your favor.

I hope so too and they've been pretty good so far IMO. But it's always difficult to estimate the value of something old but not a collector's item. If it was an old car it would be a bit easier. However they would give you the blue book value and that would be way less than what the car was worth to you, the bike is going to be the same. So if they gave me what the bike was worth it would be hard to find a replacement because you'd be looking for another early 80's bike in good working condition and there aren't going to be a lot of them and even less in your size. Still waiting to hear back from the bike shop so

 

[nuke_diver]

Well just heard from the bike shop and the bad news is confirmed. The place that "could" fix the frame said that the cost of repair would far outweigh the cost of what the frame would be worth. Given the age of the parts etc you would be looking essentially at needing a whole new bike if you got a new frame (especially with a lot of the frame going to disc brakes nowadays). The bike shop is going to provide me a letter to the effect that the frame/bike is totaled and wording to the effect of "To source a comparable 1980s Chromoly frame with a vintage Suntour drivetrain and restore it to safe riding condition would cost approximately $X" So I can see what I can get moneywise to get a new bike. Getting a vintage replacement while somewhat nostalgic is going to be difficult depending on what X is as finding an older bike (ie that old) in good working order in my size may well be more expensive than a decent new gravel bike (which would be a great way to ride to the gym given how comfortable those fatter tires are )

 

[Tig]

Well just heard from the bike shop and the bad news is confirmed. The place that "could" fix the frame said that the cost of repair would far outweigh the cost of what the frame would be worth. Given the age of the parts etc you would be looking essentially at needing a whole new bike if you got a new frame (especially with a lot of the frame going to disc brakes nowadays). The bike shop is going to provide me a letter to the effect that the frame/bike is totaled and wording to the effect of "To source a comparable 1980s Chromoly frame with a vintage Suntour drivetrain and restore it to safe riding condition would cost approximately $X" So I can see what I can get moneywise to get a new bike. Getting a vintage replacement while somewhat nostalgic is going to be difficult depending on what X is as finding an older bike (ie that old) in good working order in my size may well be more expensive than a decent new gravel bike (which would be a great way to ride to the gym given how comfortable those fatter tires are )

If you don't end up with much to work with, check out the two 4130 steel 8-speed/downtube shifter road bikes on sale for $585. It looks like the black one is limited in available sizes, though. I could live with the purple for that price. https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/road-bikes

Introducing the State Bicycle Co. 4130 Road Bike. Built on the double butted 4130 Chromoly frames that the company was founded on, this stunning machine pays homage to classic road bikes with plenty of modern qualities. Distinct to the 4130 Road is a highly-responsive classic 8-speed down tube shifting. The bike sports a fully CNC machined crank with 44t chainring with an 11-28 cassette, giving a versatile range to any rider in the city. While keeping classic styling, up-to-date features like a 1 1/8" threadless stem and light-weight wide rims capable of handling 32c clearance. State Bicycle Co. paid attention to every detail in our first geared-road bike offering, with special ornamentation on the brake levers, hubs, brake pad holders, saddle and more. The frame accommodates both front and rear racks. This bike is the perfect commuter for anyone who loves the clean, timeless aesthetic offered by State Bicycle Co. but needs the gears to help with a hilly commute.

 

[nuke_diver]

@Tig Nice That would certainly work as an option. I have also seen some bikes by Public that are similarly priced. They even have one with disc brakes under $600 but it's flat bars and I kind of prefer drop handlebars since that's all I've ridden for almost 60 years

 

[Andrew Sak]

Well just heard from the bike shop and the bad news is confirmed. The place that "could" fix the frame said that the cost of repair would far outweigh the cost of what the frame would be worth. Given the age of the parts etc you would be looking essentially at needing a whole new bike if you got a new frame (especially with a lot of the frame going to disc brakes nowadays). The bike shop is going to provide me a letter to the effect that the frame/bike is totaled and wording to the effect of "To source a comparable 1980s Chromoly frame with a vintage Suntour drivetrain and restore it to safe riding condition would cost approximately $X" So I can see what I can get moneywise to get a new bike. Getting a vintage replacement while somewhat nostalgic is going to be difficult depending on what X is as finding an older bike (ie that old) in good working order in my size may well be more expensive than a decent new gravel bike (which would be a great way to ride to the gym given how comfortable those fatter tires are )

I feel the drivers insurance company should make this right with another bike that's 100% to your liking, and be grateful you aren't going after big bucks that surely you could get.

 

[Tig]

I feel the drivers insurance company should make this right with another bike that's 100% to your liking, and be grateful you aren't going after big bucks that surely you could get.

When I got hit in 1988, my new Cannondale frame and wheels were toast. The bike shop wrote the estimate as totaled. Thanks to the full insurance liability payment of $20K (minus 33% for the much needed lawyer), I went from Shimano 105 to Campy Chorus/Record mix. I bought it slightly used from the shop owner.

 

[Lerxst]

Somehow FedEx lost both bikes in one of their Maryland distribution centers. Hopefully who ever took them out the back door enjoys them.

 

[nuke_diver]

Well I got a nice letter from the bike shop detailing how much it would be to fix/replace the bike. Unfortunately (and kind of expected) the ins co wants to know the value of the bike before the accident. While it could be higher because of the age based on what the BS said and what I can determine online it's probably more likely $150-300. So no something like $25 for scrap metal but it doesn't get me much of a bike in replacement. I've been looking over FB marketplace and craiglist and used bikes look to be a crap shoot. Many have little to no details on size and many look sketchy from a maintenance standpoint. I'm sure that if I hadn't settled the medical stuff already I'd have more leverage but they gave me $1500 for injuries and I've been injured worse on my own accord so I thought that was fair.

If they give me $250 for the bike I'll be a bit disappointed but I also know that there probably isn't a lot of leverage. If I was in a car accident with a car worth $4000 and it was totaled they aren't going to give you $50000 so you can buy a new equivalent one, you'd get 4 grand. You can get more like Tig did but that's going into liability not replacement of property. It isn't so much about the money since I can use some of that $1500 to get a new bike and maybe I can find something suitable for only a few hundred but I had hoped that it would be a bit easier (like they took what the BS wrote and said ok here's another $1500 go get yourself a new bike). I guess I should have waited but with us being out of town for a few months I was just trying to put this behind me. Maybe they will still sweeten the deal but I'm no longer confident that will happen. I'll see what he has to say soon

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Wow! @nuke_diver Totally missed all this. have not been on the forum hardly at all for months.

Seems to me like a well restored, but not super collector, vintage piece of anything is never going to be commercially worth (which is what they go on) what it would be to someone who uses effectively that same item rather than a new whatever it is. Hoping you get enough money to at least get a good used frame or something to build up the equivalent steel is real bike with as much of the parts as you can salvage plus any extra bits you can replace. Or just save the hassle and get one of these other options above for the same use factor. The world has gone to a full subscription model and insurance has been that way for a long time, and the house always wins in these smaller dollar property claims.

(NOTE: This is not legal advice, and this blurb does not create any sort of attorney client relationship. I am not licensed in CA. And I no longer do any injury claims. Just some general thoughts to go over with a lawyer of your choosing in your area)

I guess the other option would be to claim your personal injury (which you DID have, as it doesn't require some broken bone or an ambulance, and as you were sore for a while so had at least some soft tissue injury to recovery from) that should at least help with replacing the bike and any medical bills you incurred or will. But I don't suppose you ever got checked out by anyone. Doing that close in time at least documents the injury. Not sure what the officer's report said about your status or what you reported at the scene. But that also potentially opens a hassle with the paperwork and effort that will take. And it is harder now a few months later. But not impossible. If you are sore still at all or have had any lingering impacts, I would suggest you check it out with a lawyer and your PCP. Notes taken by any chiropractor or PT you see or anything like that would also help document the injury. I would guess you had at least some strain/sprain going on from that impact. And you stated it in this thread a few days later. And if you have had ANY impact on your life in terms of pain, etc., missed work or personal life, etc., this is your only chance to get any restitution for that. Beyond the property claim of the bike.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

If you don't end up with much to work with, check out the two 4130 steel 8-speed/downtube shifter road bikes on sale for $585. It looks like the black one is limited in available sizes, though. I could live with the purple for that price. https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/road-bikes

View attachment 123420
View attachment 123421

Introducing the State Bicycle Co. 4130 Road Bike. Built on the double butted 4130 Chromoly frames that the company was founded on, this stunning machine pays homage to classic road bikes with plenty of modern qualities. Distinct to the 4130 Road is a highly-responsive classic 8-speed down tube shifting. The bike sports a fully CNC machined crank with 44t chainring with an 11-28 cassette, giving a versatile range to any rider in the city. While keeping classic styling, up-to-date features like a 1 1/8" threadless stem and light-weight wide rims capable of handling 32c clearance. State Bicycle Co. paid attention to every detail in our first geared-road bike offering, with special ornamentation on the brake levers, hubs, brake pad holders, saddle and more. The frame accommodates both front and rear racks. This bike is the perfect commuter for anyone who loves the clean, timeless aesthetic offered by State Bicycle Co. but needs the gears to help with a hilly commute.

I would have no problem with purple. In fact I have two purple bikes, Konas, both of them. (wait, Three if you count this one I share with Mollie in Boise, the Ibis DV9)

Got a reasonable start on riding but then travel interfered for a while, then Boise started burning in the foothills where you ride, then more travel, then hella smoke. Better now and back on it. Hoping for clear air and consistent riding to re-improve fitness again heading into winter. Have been on the stationary bike more also, during the smoke, so not starting from nothing.

 

[Tig]

I would have no problem with purple. In fact I have two purple bikes, Konas, both of them. (wait, Three if you count this one I share with Mollie in Boise, the Ibis DV9)

Got a reasonable start on riding but then travel interfered for a while, then Boise started burning in the foothills where you ride, then more travel, then hella smoke. Better now and back on it. Hoping for clear air and consistent riding to re-improve fitness again heading into winter. Have been on the stationary bike more also, during the smoke, so not starting from nothing.View attachment 123731View attachment 123732View attachment 123730

I'm good with purple.

 

[nuke_diver]

I'm thinking maybe a gravel bike would be the best bet for me. My old steel was both the main commuter (to the gym) and occasional longer ride if my CAAD13 was in the shop (which has happened a couple of times). So I would probable want something that could fill a similar role and given there are some decent trails not too far away maybe a gravel bike would be the ticket. I'm not fussy on colour but at least part of me thinks if I'm going to spend $$ I should get what I want which means primarily through axles and hydraulic disc brakes. I've been looking at FB marketplace (not great since generally a single picture and very little details) or craigslist for something used but not much has jumped out at me. I will probably go to a local bike exchange and see if they have something reasonable in my size (about a 58/large frame depending on manufacturer).

@sunvalleylaw thanks for the advice Steve though I think the ship has sailed because they did give me $ for medical so I can use that for the bike. I never went to the doctor at all. Honestly I was not hurt too bad and didn't really have any lasting issues. And I agreed to that so I think trying to get something else now would be legally difficult or impossible.

I'm trying to be cooperative but I'm trying to not get low balled on the bike though like I said before I kind of get that you won't get a new bike money for it. I'm still waiting for a clarification from them, they offered $275 which is effectively what I could determine the interwebz thought the insurance claim would be. Of course taking that and finding a bike for 275 is nearly impossible. It's either a POS near that price or it's considerably more 500-1000ish for something that is in ridable shape with a similar vintage. The clarification was about a statement saying something like "if you find a comparable bike that the INS co would owe for the cost of that comparable bike" Which to me sounds like if I find a 1983 Japanese steel Lug frame bike with SunTour components for $600 they would pay for that but they won't give me $600 to buy a new bike