The white guitar phase 2

Invisible? Oh, the joint?
Yeah. Not too bad.

Funny thing. After I took out the Formica shims and replaced them with the walnut....
I notice it changed the toanz quite a lot. "Warmed it up" one might say. It took away more highs. I never thought I'd say that about this guitar, but it was too dark sounding. I put one of the Formica shims back. And it's brighter sounding now. Imagine 1/8 ounce of high pressure laminate having that kinda impact...
I guess it's the equivalent of switching from brass to steel saddles on a tele or something.

91283B32-6654-48F3-89EB-3323990DF7FE-650-000001A41568C606_zpsd3f0ab1f.jpg


AA6C684F-9677-41EF-9647-F63319A147D7-650-000001A4238A98DF_zps40fb3c3b.jpg
 
Invisible? Oh, the joint?
Yeah. Not too bad.

Funny thing. After I took out the Formica shims and replaced them with the walnut....
I notice it changed the toanz quite a lot. "Warmed it up" one might say. It took away more highs. I never thought I'd say that about this guitar, but it was too dark sounding. I put one of the Formica shims back. And it's brighter sounding now. Imagine 1/8 ounce of high pressure laminate having that kinda impact...
I guess it's the equivalent of switching from brass to steel saddles on a tele or something.
I dare you to post that on TGP.
 
Made some minor fixes.
First, the nut. The precut Tusq nut I installed didn't fit quite right. The string spacing was off a little so I went to GC with the intention of buying a Tusq blank to make my own. They did not have a Tusq blank but they did have bone so I got it. 1/3 the price of Tusq, too. Anyway I now have a shiny new bone nut.



Next was the strap button on the tail end. The tailpiece I'm using is intended for deep body guitars like a ES175 or the like so the body bracket goes all the way to the back of the guitar. With no hole drilled in the center for a strap button, I screwed it into one of the three existing screw locations so it was off center. You can just see it in this older pic. I had a hard time locating it in any of my pics. Always hated the way it looked and I maintained a Soviet era vigilance in the "non existence" of the offending button in state photographs.





I decided to drill a hole in the tailpiece and bolt a button into place. What could possibly go wrong? :grin:
Space for the nut behind the tailpiece was needed and that was ok because I kinda also needed some relief space for the soldered ground wire, too. Further, I'm still looking at ways to reduce weight, so I made a fairly good sized relief hole like so...





Then did the drilling and bolting...




 
The black epoxy side dots came out well, I think.



I've been polishing the bridge and saddle slots. Finally, a coat of Watco Danish Oil finish on the rosewood.
Amazing how much difference there is in tone with this bridge vs the original adjustable model. This is fatter sounding, warmer sounding and the sustaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinmnnnnnnnnn is way better.



 
image.jpg


Headstock complete with truss rod cover, strings and freshly bleached/polished bone nut. I'd say the nut is a success. It did away with the low E string wanting to roll over the top of the board. The difference in string spacing at the nut, new vs old, is the difference between a Gibson (before) and Epiphone (after.) That's 1/16" narrower.
 
Awesome.


That bridge looks like it's flipped 180 degrees.
The string slots look wider for the thinner gauge strings and vice versa.

Edit: I'm not knocking it. I'm asking, err... pointing it out to see if I'm seeing what I'm seeing. Ya see?
 
Last edited:
They're all the same size. I only have one round needle file.
It's kinda an illusion. The skinny strings make the slots look wider because they sit a little deeper.
 
Very nice.

We need to set up your white guitar and my black strat on a date. Their kids would be awesome!

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 4
 
Now with twice the toan! Controls, that is.
I wanted the volume control closer to the bridge.
Further, there was no sweet spot for the tone control. The neck liked it high and the bridge liked it low which forced constant flicking every time you want to flip the switch.
So, I added a second tone control and drilled a new hole for a volume.
I re-used the volume pot, at 275k. The old tone pot, at 260, became the bridge tone while a new 400k went into the neck tone position.



image.jpg
 
Back
Top