Parts Guitar Builds

Lerxst

spaghetti and blankets
In general, you see a lot of hesitation on the part of folks that haven't built one on taking the plunge. I think there's a pretty huge benefit to serious consideration of a build when you're looking at obtaining a new guitar...assuming the parts route can yield what you're looking for.

Let's talk about those issues and how significant they really are. Here's a few that I always see:

-afraid that the guitar is going to suck
-don't own any tools
-don't know how to wire the guitar
-don't know how to perform a setup
 
My first Warmothcaster came together last year. The only screwup was that I didn't understand string spacing choices, bridge choices, etc. and I ended up with this mess:

20190808_113205[1].jpg
20190808_113158[1].jpg



Happily, it doesn't seem to matter too much at all—it intonates and plays just fine. But I still don't really understand where I screwed up. Nut width?
 
Another problem a friend of mine has is instant gratification. He wants to go from purchase to plug-in. Not much way around that if you fit that mold but OTOH I definitely find the process of deciding on the specs then gathering the parts to be it's own appealing process. There's also people who just don't know what they want and leave that up to a MFG to spec the guitar for them. No way around that.

Sucky guitars? I know guys that haven't bonded with certain spec Warmoth necks. A friend went through that and sold the neck on ebay then purchased another more to his taste off Warmoth. He lost a couple bucks in the process but still not much of a dent in the price difference between build vs buy in the end. All of the builds I've done w/ quality parts have resulted in some great guitars. Using the cheapest stuff you can buy is probably more of a risk. Lots of people manage to build instruments they're happy with from a range of price points so tighter budgets just mean being a little more conscientious about the assessing quality of the part.
 
I've built quite a few parts guitars, so I'll give my opinion on these.

-afraid that the guitar is going to suck - If you go with quality parts, it isn't going to suck. If you scour ebay and buy the $25 neck from China, your guitar may suck, but that isn't always true either. I've found a few steals over the years.

-don't own any tools - to assemble a guitar, you need a couple of screw drivers, 1/2" socket and a soldering iron. Even if you don't have any of those, that's maybe $30 worth of tools you'll need.

-don't know how to wire the guitar
-don't know how to perform a setup - These last 2 go hand in hand. I think most people here are at least 35. You really should know how to wire a guitar and do a basic setup by now. There are tons of online resources that can show you how. If you still don't want to go down that road, there are several sellers on Reverb and eBay who sell prewired pickups and there has got to be some local techs who can do setups. Get the guitar assembled and let a tech get the action and intonation done.
 
My first Warmothcaster came together last year. The only screwup was that I didn't understand string spacing choices, bridge choices, etc. and I ended up with this mess:

View attachment 49595 View attachment 49596


Happily, it doesn't seem to matter too much at all—it intonates and plays just fine. But I still don't really understand where I screwed up. Nut width?

There are bridges with different string spacing. I made that mistake on my latest strat build. I sold the wrong bridge and then bought the right one problem solved. Looks like you have a bridge with 2-7/32" string spacing and you need a 2-1/16" spacing.
 
Happily, it doesn't seem to matter too much at all—it intonates and plays just fine. But I still don't really understand where I screwed up. Nut width?
Looks like you have vintage-spaced (wide) saddles on a modern/import-spaced (narrow) bridge plate.
 
@GilmourD and/or @Chad — which one of you wants to provide me with a link to the right bridge (or the right saddles if all that's required is swapping them out)? That's a Gotoh on there now.

Golly, you guys are swell. BFFs 4ever!
 
@GilmourD and/or @Chad — which one of you wants to provide me with a link to the right bridge (or the right saddles if all that's required is swapping them out)? That's a Gotoh on there now.

Golly, you guys are swell. BFFs 4ever!
Your pick looks a lot like mine did in my Tone Zone thread. https://markweinguitarlessons.com/forums/threads/tone-zone.93982/ The first pick with the Tone Zone had the 2-7/32" spacing. The pick with the RailHammer has the new bridge and you can see it lines up over the pole pieces on the higher strings.

I snagged a Callaham, because I am crazy and like spending money on expensive hardware :grin:

https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat_bridge_vn_catalog.htm

I will say, the Callaham sounds way better than the Gotoh I had on my last build. Just playing it unplugged, it sounds like there is more life in it. It's also much smoother.

You'll want to double check by measuring the spread of the pole pieces. Measure from the middle of the E poles to get the spread.
https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_aftermarketstrat.htm

Has 2 different spacings 2-1/16" and 2-3/16".
 
Your pick looks a lot like mine did in my Tone Zone thread. https://markweinguitarlessons.com/forums/threads/tone-zone.93982/ The first pick with the Tone Zone had the 2-7/32" spacing. The pick with the RailHammer has the new bridge and you can see it lines up over the pole pieces on the higher strings.

I snagged a Callaham, because I am crazy and like spending money on expensive hardware :grin:

https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat_bridge_vn_catalog.htm

I will say, the Callaham sounds way better than the Gotoh I had on my last build. Just playing it unplugged, it sounds like there is more life in it. It's also much smoother.

You'll want to double check by measuring the spread of the pole pieces. Measure from the middle of the E poles to get the spread.
https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_aftermarketstrat.htm

Has 2 different spacings 2-1/16" and 2-3/16".
Jeepers, that's boss!
 
Somebody must've pulled it apart and put the wrong saddles on it, then. Those are definitely the wider vintage-spaced saddles.

Also, weird... 2-3/16... That' narrower than vintage 2-7/32 but wider than modern 2-1/16...

Did you drill the screwholes to mount the trem or were they pre-drilled? If they were pre-drilled, did you have any trouble with them lining up perfectly?
 
Somebody must've pulled it apart and put the wrong saddles on it, then. Those are definitely the wider vintage-spaced saddles.

Also, weird... 2-3/16... That' narrower than vintage 2-7/32 but wider than modern 2-1/16...

Did you drill the screwholes to mount the trem or were they pre-drilled? If they were pre-drilled, did you have any trouble with them lining up perfectly?
In terms of actual work I didn't do a damn thing. All I did was go on a spending bender without doing any sort of due diligence on this kind of stuff. :facepalm:

The body came from Warmoth with whatever their standard 6-hole drilling is. My local guy did the assembly and only pointed out the bridge issue after the fact. Like I said, he did a fine job of dialing it in.
 
If you've never built a guitar before, I recommend starting with Strat, Super Strat, or Tele that you like but want to do something like change the pickups or repaint the body....

... then take the guitar COMPLETELY apart.

Being able to reassemble a guitar, resolder the electronics, and perform a decent setup are INTEGRAL parts of the process. They're MUCH easier to do when the neck, pickups, saddles, etc etc etc all are made for each other.

Quite often when mixing and matching frankenstein parts, you find this neck pocket is too big, too small, too shallow, the holes for the string ferrules don't line up with the bridge, this trem is too wide for this neck and the E strings are falling off the sides of the neck. These are all common obstacles but if you've never built a guitar before, you'd just assume that you suck at guitar building and made some kind of useless piece of junk. It's much easier when you're only overcoming one or two retrofit issues and not a metric shit ton.

If that process works for you... try out a kit, where again, the pieces are made for each other.

At some point, you may try cutting your own wood, installing your own truss rod, doing your own fret work.... at some point you will either love it... or find the threshold of your tolerance.

My threshold has changed over the years... since I'm busy playing in bands now, I have zero patience for fret work. Repaint, resolder, rebuild, set up... that's all fine but I'd rather pay someone to do my frets while I have band practice. :grin:

Setting up lots of guitars is important because when you run into a problem like how much relief on the fingerboard... raising and lowering saddles vs neck shim... recutting the nut... these are all issues that can be overcome but you need to be able to accurately identify which one is the issue.
 
I’m phenomenally impatient and fear screwing something up in assembly as part of the rush. Or being thwarted by some slightly incompatible parts.

I can do my own setups, but I’m busy and it’s worth my time to pay my guy and get it done quickly and right the first time vs. futzing.
 
Chad and Baimun speak wisdom.

The best you can do on this is pick quality parts and be patient. If you don't know how to do something, you can always pay somebody to do it for you. I don't trust myself to do fret leveling or nut slotting, for example.

You can still run into a situation where the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Combining your favorite pickup, body wood, and bridge may not work out like you think. I've found a little experimentation and trial-and-error can fix it, though.
 
Chad and Baimun speak wisdom.

The best you can do on this is pick quality parts and be patient. If you don't know how to do something, you can always pay somebody to do it for you. I don't trust myself to do fret leveling or nut slotting, for example.

You can still run into a situation where the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Combining your favorite pickup, body wood, and bridge may not work out like you think. I've found a little experimentation and trial-and-error can fix it, though.

Fretwork is the one thing I won't do. I could do it, I've watched a few videos, but it looks like a gigantic pain in the ass and I'd rather pay someone to do that.
 
In terms of actual work I didn't do a damn thing. All I did was go on a spending bender without doing any sort of due diligence on this kind of stuff. :facepalm:

The body came from Warmoth with whatever their standard 6-hole drilling is. My local guy did the assembly and only pointed out the bridge issue after the fact. Like I said, he did a fine job of dialing it in.

For the Callaham stuff, the mounting hole spacing is the same and it dropped right into the Warmoth. The difference is just the saddles. The Gotoh I had before also just dropped in. I bought the Gotoh from Warmoth and looking at a pic I took of the guitar it was on, it looks like the spacing was off as well.
 
Quite often when mixing and matching frankenstein parts, you find this neck pocket is too big, too small, too shallow, the holes for the string ferrules don't line up with the bridge, this trem is too wide for this neck and the E strings are falling off the sides of the neck. These are all common obstacles but if you've never built a guitar before, you'd just assume that you suck at guitar building and made some kind of useless piece of junk. It's much easier when you're only overcoming one or two retrofit issues and not a metric shit ton.

This is why I only use Warmoth for the neck and body. It may be a little more expensive (I usually get the bodies from the Screamin Deals section so it isn't outrageous) but I know it's going to fit together perfectly and I know what hardware will work on it.
 
The great part about doing Frankenstein-builds... you learn pretty quickly nut sizes, string spacing, radius, neck dimensions, scale length, saddle spacing, pickup height, and all these minute details that can make or break a guitar for you.

There are guitars that look beautiful, but I wrap my hand around the 5th or 7th fret and say “nope”. They might be someone else’s dream guitar, but I don’t even need to lift it off the rack.

Like @USian Pie said above, there have been times though where I picked out parts that I thought would be perfect but I ended up hating. Mini buckers in a guitar with a maple neck was one.. and pickups I loved in a mahogany trem guitar that sounded like broken glass in a swamp ash hard tail guitar.
 
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