Have you ever done, seen, or heard of a combo amp converted into a head and cab?

I knew a guy in HCAF who converted a 6505+ combo into a head. Not sure how that sort of thing is done, but it's not unheard of. I don't know what the point of doing that to a combo is. What are the advantages? I assume the combo usually does not have as much wattage as a head.
 
I knew a guy in HCAF who converted a 6505+ combo into a head. Not sure how that sort of thing is done, but it's not unheard of. I don't know what the point of doing that to a combo is. What are the advantages? I assume the combo usually does not have as much wattage as a head.

My Fender is a 45 watt-er. My advantages to this would be:

- Easier to carry as two separate units (trying to move a top heavy 4x12 combo amp up/down stairs is not easy)
- The ability to have different cabs immediantly ready for use (different speaker set ups)
- Cosmetics! Having different colors for the cab and head (like a black head and a burgendy cab)
 
all that pink/black is totally killer.

I think I need to do that to one of my guitars asap

It's so easy, it's stupid.

Got a black Jay Turser V for $50 a month ago, gave it to bro in law to paint. Now I wish I'd kept it.:lol:

They have the same fabric in black, and white. Was thinking of cutting the fabric an inch smaller, all the way around. Sort of a burst. :thu:
 
P1050480.jpg


P1050481.jpg
 
With the Super Reverb, here is the issue you run into...

Reverb.

You can't have the Reverb pickup anywhere near power transformer and Leo used a large tank.

That's why Leo used HUGE head cabinets for the Bandmaster Reverb and Dual Showman Reverb. By the way, a Bandmaster Reverb cabinet should fit your Super Reverb chassis like a fine pair of Chic jeans. But it's massive enough to install the amp chassis, the reverb tank *and* two 8" speakers. If you want a smaller cabinet, you have to do what modern reverb head builders do and use a smaller tank and mount it away from the PT.

fender_bandmaster_reverb_1.jpg


Oh and your combo should be 4x10" not 4x12". You'll want to calculate matching that 2-ohm load correctly.
 
Last edited:
With the Super Reverb, here is the issue you run into...

Reverb.

You can't have the Reverb pickup anywhere near power transformer and Leo used a large tank.

That's why Leo used HUGE head cabinets for the Bandmaster Reverb and Dual Showman Reverb. By the way, a Bandmaster Reverb cabinet should fit your Super Reverb chassis like a fine pair of Chic jeans. But it's massive enough to install the amp chassis, the reverb tank *and* two 8" speakers. If you want a smaller cabinet, you have to do what modern reverb head builders do and use a smaller tank and mount it away from the PT.

fender_bandmaster_reverb_1.jpg


Oh and your combo should be 4x10" not 4x12". You'll want to calculate matching that 2-ohm load correctly.


I never knew thats why those head boxes were so tall...
 
With the Super Reverb, here is the issue you run into...

Reverb.

You can't have the Reverb pickup anywhere near power transformer and Leo used a large tank.

That's why Leo used HUGE head cabinets for the Bandmaster Reverb and Dual Showman Reverb. By the way, a Bandmaster Reverb cabinet should fit your Super Reverb chassis like a fine pair of Chic jeans. But it's massive enough to install the amp chassis, the reverb tank *and* two 8" speakers. If you want a smaller cabinet, you have to do what modern reverb head builders do and use a smaller tank and mount it away from the PT.

fender_bandmaster_reverb_1.jpg


Oh and your combo should be 4x10" not 4x12". You'll want to calculate matching that 2-ohm load correctly.


Thanks, this whole time I was assuming it was a 4x12". Didn't know it had 10's in it.

Could you further explain what the ohm rating means?
 
Thanks, this whole time I was assuming it was a 4x12". Didn't know it had 10's in it.

Could you further explain what the ohm rating means?

Further explain? Yes.

Competently explain? Probably not.

Power tubes are high-output-impedance devices, they require a large resistance it order to get the sheer volume you desire out of relatively low currents. We are talking 3,200 to 10,000 ohms. Speakers are not high-output-impedance devices. We are talking 4 to 16 ohms. Thus you need something inbetween as a "matching network"...the output transformer.

Output transformers have no set impedance. Transformers are all about ratios. V{in}:V{out}

The nominal power tube output resistance for Fender's 2x6L6GC setup is ~4,000-4,300 ohms. IIRC, the Super Reverb OT ratio is 2000:1
- If you hook up a 8-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 16,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=16000:8
- If you hook up a 4-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 8,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=8000:4
- If you hook up a 2-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 4,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=4000:2

Thus to get the nominal 4,000-ohm primary load, you need to use a 2-ohm speaker load.

You can swap that OT out for one that has a different ratio...1000:1 would allow an optimal 4-ohm speaker load....500:2 would allow an optimal 8-ohm speaker load. Or a multi-tap OT will allow the choice between several loads. BTW, most OT's are listed by expected application...so the manufacturer won't say 500:1, they will say 4000:8.

Mismatching loads will result in a change of tone. In amps with smaller or cheaper OT's (not a problem for a Super Reverb which has massive iron), it can results in damage from too much current draw or too much voltage being reflected back from the speaker load. So, is it dangerous for the amp to mismatch...a lot depends on the amp construction and parts used. You've probably heard it's ok to mismatch a Fender or Marshall amp by a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio, and that's generally true. You should be able to safely drive a 4-ohm load with your SR, but it'll affect power output and tone to do so.

For versatility with multiple cabinets, I recommend removing and safely storing the original OT and installing a multi-tap.
 
Last edited:
Further explain? Yes.

Competently explain? Probably not.

Power tubes are high-output-impedance devices, they require a large resistance it order to get the sheer volume you desire out of relatively low currents. We are talking 3,200 to 10,000 ohms. Speakers are not high-output-impedance devices. We are talking 4 to 16 ohms. Thus you need something inbetween as a "matching network"...the output transformer.

Output transformers have no set impedance. Transformers are all about ratios. V{in}:V{out}

The nominal power tube output resistance for Fender's 2x6L6GC setup is ~4,000-4,300 ohms. IIRC, the Super Reverb OT ratio is 2000:1
- If you hook up a 8-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 16,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=16000:8
- If you hook up a 4-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 8,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=8000:4
- If you hook up a 2-ohm speaker (secondary impedance), that would be reflected back to the tubes as 4,000 ohms (primary impedance) 2000:1=4000:2

Thus to get the nominal 4,000-ohm primary load, you need to use a 2-ohm speaker load.

You can swap that OT out for one that has a different ratio...1000:1 would allow an optimal 4-ohm speaker load....500:2 would allow an optimal 8-ohm speaker load. Or a multi-tap OT will allow the choice between several loads. BTW, most OT's are listed by expected application...so the manufacturer won't say 500:1, they will say 4000:8.

Mismatching loads will result in a change of tone. In amps with smaller or cheaper OT's (not a problem for a Super Reverb which has massive iron), it can results in damage from too much current draw or too much voltage being reflected back from the speaker load. So, is it dangerous for the amp to mismatch...a lot depends on the amp construction and parts used. You've probably heard it's ok to mismatch a Fender or Marshall amp by a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio, and that's generally true. You should be able to safely drive a 4-ohm load with your SR, but it'll affect power output and tone to do so.

For versatility with multiple cabinets, I recommend removing and safely storing the original OT and installing a multi-tap.

Very informative, thank you.

You said I "should" be able to run a 4 ohm cabinet as my amp is right now at the cost is tone/power output, is that all? Would the mismatched ratio have any negative effects on the guts of my amp over time if I kept playing it just like that?

Also, after you mentioned my amp being a 4x10 you also stated that I'll want to calculate matching the 2 ohm load. Is a 10" speaker different than a 12" in terms of the load, even if they are both set at the same ohm rating?

When looking for a new output transformer, will it matter what I choose or look for besides the ratio? Like if I went for a Plexi/JCM800 transformer? Does wattage matter? On tubedepot.com, the transformers mention what taps for voltage they have (100/120/220/240v). What does that relate to?
 
Very informative, thank you.

You said I "should" be able to run a 4 ohm cabinet as my amp is right now at the cost is tone/power output, is that all? Would the mismatched ratio have any negative effects on the guts of my amp over time if I kept playing it just like that?

It'll run hotter, and you might have to beef up some of the power resistors, but everything should be rugged enough to dissipate the extra heat.

Also, after you mentioned my amp being a 4x10 you also stated that I'll want to calculate matching the 2 ohm load. Is a 10" speaker different than a 12" in terms of the load, even if they are both set at the same ohm rating?

No an 8-ohm speaker is an 8-ohm speaker...regardless of 8", 10", 12", 15", 6", 6"x9" oval, etc. It's how the speaker is made, not the size it is. The Super Rverb uses four 8-ohm speakers wired in parallel for a total 2-ohm load.

When looking for a new output transformer, will it matter what I choose or look for besides the ratio? Like if I went for a Plexi/JCM800 transformer? Does wattage matter?

Buy one made for the Super Reverb...that way it'll fit the old screw holes. You want it to fit, and to be the right ratio and to be at least the desired wattage. You can drop a 85-watt Twin Reverb transformer in there and maybe get a bit more lower end from the bigger iron (actually, it's pretty much the same OT), but you won't get more output, it's still be 45-50 watts RMS. But if you drop a smaller 35-watt Vibrolux Reverb transformer in there it'll choke off the output at 35-watts.

My recommendation is the Magnetic Components Classictone 40-18000 (50W/60W 4.2K primary 2/4/8 secondary), it's a drop-in replacement, is rugged, and uses M6 laminates to run cool. But he no longer offers anything bigger than 40 watts.

On tubedepot.com, the transformers mention what taps for voltage they have (100/120/220/240v). What does that relate to?

Those are power transformers...those numbers are primary AC wall voltage. 120VAC for the U.S.
 
Last edited:
I never knew thats why those head boxes were so tall...

Me either. Good to know. Bro in law has a Fender 140 head he wants covevered in the flame material to match his cabs. It's no a vintage 60s Fender, made in 1980, but they were only made in 1980, so it's kinda rare. Thought if I couldn't talk him into restoring it, I could just make another shell, and cover that in flames, and yeah, I was going to make it smaller.

So, the good news, new shell, + Peavey VTM60 chassis weighs less than just original shell. Unoffical, don't have a scale, wife won't allow one in the house. :grin:

The bad news, I'm not capable of simple fucking math. :mad: I have a table saw, but no extensions, or anyplace to have a table saw with extensions, so if I need to cut anything bigger than 9", I clamp a straight edge, and run a circular saw up against it. From the edge of the plate, on the bottom of the saw, to the side of the blade is 1 1/4". Depending on which piece of wood you want, you either add, or subtract 1 1/4". I added, instead of subtracted, so shell was 2 1/2" too wide. :facepalm:

2 1/2 inches removed.

P1050482.jpg
 
Oops is fixed. Holes drilled for amp, and handle. Blocks atached to atach the front, and back. Fabric on, and decopaughed.

P1050485.jpg


It goes on white, and dries clear, unless you put it on too thick. Mostly where you overlap where you started. So let it sit till the weekend, sand, then start putting poly on.

P1050486.jpg


This is the stuff I get at Hobby Lobby, where I buy all my fabric. :grin:

P1050487.jpg
 
Got started on it yesterday, it's done. Well is anything ever really done? Tried to find vinyl pipeing at Hobby Lobby. No dice, probably have to order that. Also, it really needs a logo.

P1050490.jpg


P1050491.jpg


Next to son's. Hows that for a before, and after pic.:)

P1050493.jpg


...and speaking of logos.... My plan for son's, take the P off the empty shell, cut it smaller, remove the y from son's, and put the p upside down where the y was. Peaved. Like an angry amp.:thu:
 
Okay guys. I started making the plans for the head cabinet in MS Paint. I got a friend in high school advanced woodshop who can build it for me.

I'm going to make it about 7-8 inches tall. I'm just going to remove the reverb tank and all those connections. Reverb is shot anyway, and if I want one Ill just get a pedal.

My one question; would it be best to paint the inside with that black electrical shielding paint like the inside of guitar cavities/routes have?
 
Okay guys. I started making the plans for the head cabinet in MS Paint. I got a friend in high school advanced woodshop who can build it for me.

I'm going to make it about 7-8 inches tall. I'm just going to remove the reverb tank and all those connections. Reverb is shot anyway, and if I want one Ill just get a pedal.

My one question; would it be best to paint the inside with that black electrical shielding paint like the inside of guitar cavities/routes have?


I don't know if I've ever seen it done, but I don't think it would hurt...
 
My one question; would it be best to paint the inside with that black electrical shielding paint like the inside of guitar cavities/routes have?

The amp chassis already acts as a shield. Some amp compnaies will use foil on the one side that the chassis open faces (the top in the case of Fender chassis).

And remember, shielding only works well if you connect it to ground.
 
Back
Top