G&L ASAT Jack Replacement

Modern Saint

Starve your Fear, Feed your Dream!
So after buying my G&L ASAT in 1991, I finally have to replace the jack. Been having issues of it intermittently cutting out. Sadly G&L's use a switchcraft deep panel jack

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So I will need to get a replacement and follow the following instructions on how to replace one.

http://www.guitarsbyleo.com/GALLERY/Tutorials/jack_replacement_landscape.pdf

Just though I would share.
 
If you can hammer the new one in, why do you need to twist the old one out with an easy out?

Tapping the old one out with a punch or screwdriver to get it moving should get it far enough out to grip it with pliers to pull it out.

I'm asking. I've never done it before.
I just thought that the easy out was needed so that it can be twisted so as to not grate any wood out with those ridges.
 
If you can hammer the new one in, why do you need to twist the old one out with an easy out?

Tapping the old one out with a punch or screwdriver to get it moving should get it far enough out to grip it with pliers to pull it out.

I'm asking. I've never done it before.
I just thought that the easy out was needed so that it can be twisted so as to not grate any wood out with those ridges.

I'd say that 1) It might be hard to get something into the cavity at a good angle to hit it out without destroying other stuff (though a punch should solve that problem), and 2) There's a very real danger of lifting some of the finish/wood while you hammer it out.

I think if I had to do it, and I couldn't get the jack out by hand, I'd probably use mole grips on the inside to unscrew it until I could get mole grips on it from the outside.
 
From a G&L site, in case you haven't seen it.
The tool to use is called a wood reamer and is available at most any hardware store. No need to order one. But first, take off the control plate and look to see if your jack is held in place with a nut. If so, you will have to remove it. WARNING! DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, as doing so will risk scratching your guitar!

After removing the internal nut (if any), insert the "pointy" end of the reamer into the jack just like you would the plug on your cord. Shove it in tight and turn the "T" shaped handle in a counter-clockwise direction. The teeth on the edges of the reamer will dig into the inside of the jack thereby forcing it to turn out and be removed.
You will most likely notice a string that has been inserted running the length of the jack. This string is used to give it a tighter fit in the models where an internal nut is not used. Before replacing the new jack run a short piece of kite string through the hole; leave plenty of extra length on the inside and outside (this can be trimmed later).
Replace the jack with another Switchcraft brand inline stereo jack available from well stocked music stores or electronics supply stores (editor's note: we'll try get the precise part number for the jack here shortly). DON'T FORGET THE FELT WASHER (if your guitar has one). When re-soldering, use a low-wattage iron (preferably a 30-watt iron), and be sure to use rosin core solder. The guys at Radio Shack can help with this.
"Seat" the new jack by driving it back into the hole with a rubber mallet - or, alternatively, you can use a regular hammer if you place something over the jack to protect it. Folded cloth, rubber, or cardboard will work.
Once you do it once, it's really easy and quick. The toughest part is accepting the fact that you will have to destroy the original jack in the removal process. Just remember that it's already ruined and cannot be fixed anyway.
 
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