Steverino
black sheep
I’ve had this Alvarez Model 5021 12-string for years, found in a pawn shop for 75 bucks. Alvarez upped their game later with the Yairi etc. but these first runs, made in Japan, weren’t the best. As such, I thought I’d try my hand at fixing it.
It was mostly unplayable, action way too high. Truss rod adjustments didn’t do much, it was damn near straight under zero string tension. As I’ve gotten deeper into guitar repair (I won’t call it “luthiery” as I’m a novice), I realized I had much bigger problems with this one; (1) the bridge was lifting off the top and (2) it was showing the dreaded acoustic guitar Belly Bulge.
I read that a typical guitar can have 100-120lbs of pulling force on the bridge and approaching 300lbs on the bridge of a 12-string. All acoustics all have a bit of a bulge at the bridge, but not this bad.
So, I started reading, watching videos, and buying certain tools (StewMac makes the best, but no way could I afford a lot of their stuff). I’ve never pulled off a glued-on bridge. I used a heat gun and pried it off with a cake icing spatula.
I tried using heat to coax the top back down, Heat gun, heat lamp, even some steam to force it down and it moved down a good bit but after the clamps were released, some the progress disappeared and the top came back up about half way.
I went with the only option left; a JLD Bridge Doctor (not pictured). I heard that this rig works but can also rob tone, but I tried it. It worked like a champ and pulled the top down a good bit. I didn’t notice any change sonically. Before the Bridge Dr. went in, I glued the bridge back on with Titebond using a clamp and caul. I can’t believe it holds 12 strings, but it does. And that adjustable bridge was a big pain.
It’s playable now, sounds great, but now the tuners are worn out! I’m now looking for a solution to that. Moral of the story, take the tension off your strings if you’re putting it up for a while. It was though, imo a successful and more importantly, a good learning experience.
It was mostly unplayable, action way too high. Truss rod adjustments didn’t do much, it was damn near straight under zero string tension. As I’ve gotten deeper into guitar repair (I won’t call it “luthiery” as I’m a novice), I realized I had much bigger problems with this one; (1) the bridge was lifting off the top and (2) it was showing the dreaded acoustic guitar Belly Bulge.
I read that a typical guitar can have 100-120lbs of pulling force on the bridge and approaching 300lbs on the bridge of a 12-string. All acoustics all have a bit of a bulge at the bridge, but not this bad.
So, I started reading, watching videos, and buying certain tools (StewMac makes the best, but no way could I afford a lot of their stuff). I’ve never pulled off a glued-on bridge. I used a heat gun and pried it off with a cake icing spatula.
I tried using heat to coax the top back down, Heat gun, heat lamp, even some steam to force it down and it moved down a good bit but after the clamps were released, some the progress disappeared and the top came back up about half way.
I went with the only option left; a JLD Bridge Doctor (not pictured). I heard that this rig works but can also rob tone, but I tried it. It worked like a champ and pulled the top down a good bit. I didn’t notice any change sonically. Before the Bridge Dr. went in, I glued the bridge back on with Titebond using a clamp and caul. I can’t believe it holds 12 strings, but it does. And that adjustable bridge was a big pain.
It’s playable now, sounds great, but now the tuners are worn out! I’m now looking for a solution to that. Moral of the story, take the tension off your strings if you’re putting it up for a while. It was though, imo a successful and more importantly, a good learning experience.