The end of an era

Help!I'maRock!

Mediocringly Derivative
I previously wrote about the tribulations of my Taylor 414. It had the neck reset it needed last year but still played kinda tough after being taken apart and put back together. Coupled with my recent elbow troubles, I decided to try something I hadn't ever done. I went down a string gauge. I've played Martin SP 12-54 (phosphor bronze) for all but a little bit when I played Dunlop strings, since the day I got the guitar in April of 2004.

Today, I strung it with an 11-52 set. And now the Taylor plays like it's supposed to. There's still a little fight at the first fret, but I enjoy that. I've never really gotten that macho thing about strings, where "real men play 13s" or whatever. I do tend to like some more resistance, but I also think every guitar needs to find it's own way with regard to the right strings. And It was just the Taylor's time to move down a gauge.

Hopefully, it won't need another adjustment for the next 10 years. :cool:

 
:cool:

I used to be all about heavier strings on my acoustic but my Guild really sounds best with 11-52's too.
 
That fight at the 1st fret may be due to high nut slots. Check that out and if they are your .013s may be easier to play than they were before.

I used to be snobbish about my preference for .013s. Not anymore. If the guitar gives what it's got to give with a smaller gauge then that's what I'll leave on it.
 
It came with 11s and super high action. Needless to say, factory "setup" means little to me.
Needless to say...:wink:

I play .010s on mine...I do admit to a less-than-muscular tone but anything heavier gives me too much resistance...did you notice much drop off in volume and tone?
 
:cool:

I used to be all about heavier strings on my acoustic but my Guild really sounds best with 11-52's too.

It's got a little "stringier" tone than I remember, but I think that's just new strings instead of old strings. And if there has been any change, it sounds great, so who cares?

That fight at the 1st fret may be due to high nut slots. Check that out and if they are your .013s may be easier to play than they were before.

Actually, the nut was adjusted during the neck reset. The action is significantly better than it was previously.
 
I normally size up a bit, due to the tightness. On the Tweedy I'm trying out 11s because I've read that will help with Vibrola tuning. Most of my acoustics are 12 or 13s.


Sent from none of your fuckin' business!
 
I've been using EB 10-46's on my electrics for years, I'm thinking about trying 11s on the reverend this week.
 
I swapped my .012s for .011s on my 414 once, too. Honestly, I didn't notice a dramatic difference in sound and they played fine.

Taylor's factory action specs are not bad but I think you can squeeze a little lower action out of them if you aren't sledgehammering it.
 
I usually go with light gauge strings, but I am also a light player; I don't go for heavy strumming or booming sound.

I hope that works out for you.
 
I have no idea what's on my acoustics...the electrics are 9's and 10's (I think), depending on the guitar.
 
I play .010s on mine...I do admit to a less-than-muscular tone but anything heavier gives me too much resistance...did you notice much drop off in volume and tone?

I switched to 10's on my acoustics a few years ago and never missed the heavier strings.
 
I've always gone with bluegrass strings to get lighter gauge strings on top, and heavier gauge strings on the bottom. But as far as I know, they don't go any lighter than .012. I suppose there's an equivalent set in the .011 or .010 range, but they're probably not called "bluegrass" because the traditionalists would go ballistic.
 
I used to go with heavier strings. Then I thought about how I wanted my guitar to live forever. And how guitars of my cohorts started turning into arch tops. I went light.
 
I have 12's on my L-50 and it's just right for what I play on it. More than a few people keep trying to sell me on flatwounds for my archtops.
 
Back
Top