The Bicycle / Biking Gear Thread
- Thread starter sunvalleylaw
- Start date
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
I did a road ride up into the mountains on Saturday. Decided to ride my mountain bike on Sunday, also climbing in the local mountains. Our mountains here are steep so all rides involve climbing your ass off for miles and then either turning around or doing a loop where the last half is crazy fast descents. So I pulled my mountain bike off the rack in the garage, hadn't ridden it in a while. Pumped my tubeless tires up and loaded into the car (I actually hate riding to rides, but had time constraints on Sunday and also hate riding the road for 10 miles to get to the trailhead). Pulled my bike out of the car and the rear tire was completely deflated. Damn tubeless tires. I've heard if you let them get all the way flat it's sometimes difficult to get them to inflate with just a pump. I don't know. when I inflated them at home I rode up and down my street a couple of times, but it lost all of its air while in my car for 15 minutes. Anyway my whole ride was blown since I had a tight time schedule and had to pick up my son immediately after the ride. I guess I need to figure it out now, maybe needs more sealant (??). Any suggestions from tubeless users?
Tig
Fucktangular
It sounds like the sealant may have dried up, losing the bead seal. You should be able to hear the liquid if you hold the bottom of the wheel near your ear as you shake it.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
HaHa! I got lucky last year and rode dry sealant and never had an issue. Replaced it when I switched out tires recently, which I will do again on the rear as the front I moved to the rear when I replaced the front seems to be losing bite, and there is enough riding time it might be worth it to get a bit more climbing bite back. But, it also might rain and tighten things up and reduce the symptoms. In either case I should look to see what the recommended interval is for replacing the goo. I have never had to do so yet. I cannot say I have EVER heard the stuff in my tires. But I may not know what I should be listening for.
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
I've decided I need a cyclocross bike. I've been doing rides on my road bike where I'm about 20 miles out but there's some beautiful trailhead with either hard packed dirt fire road or a nice easy single track. Anyway I'm always thinking "that's not too hard" and I just go off road with the road bike, slicks, and 39x25 as my lowest gear. It usually surprises most of the mountain bikers I run across and it's a great workout. But I'm thinking that I may be shortening the life of my road bike, and it's pretty hard climbing steep sections on slicks. Right when I'd like to stand up to get over the steepest part of the hill just before the crest, I can't because I will have zero traction. And the downhill part is really sketchy. I'm gotten used to going through short sandy sections, both wheels want to squirm and slide in any direction, but you get comfortable with the lack of control and just pedal through it without oversteering.
So I think, why the hell am I becoming proficient at riding the wrong bike through rough terrain? Like maybe if there was a road bike in the dirt competition I'd be a star. But otherwise I could just go faster, have more control, and more fun with the proper bike. I don't like riding my really nice mountain bike for 20 miles on the streets to get to an off road destination. So I definitely need (I believe) a cross bike. I need the speed on paved streets and just enough tire/tread and slightly better gearing to get through the fire roads quickly and with more agility. The only other consideration is cost. I don't want to pile too much money into this. I have 2 previous Dura-Ace groups in the garage, one in a box and one on an older road bike. I know I either need v-style brakes or disc. I don't care which I use as I don't think the advantages of disc are that great in dry conditions. So I know I need to buy a frame and probably wheels that accept wider cross tires (?). I have bars, stems, seat posts, seats, probably need an extra pair of XT pedals.
I'm looking at craigslist and frame sales on sites like competitive cyclist.com. Any recommendations? I'd like to keep it under $1,500 for a frame, fork, wheels. And I'm not looking for retro steel frames, since I do like light weight and stiffness.
So I think, why the hell am I becoming proficient at riding the wrong bike through rough terrain? Like maybe if there was a road bike in the dirt competition I'd be a star. But otherwise I could just go faster, have more control, and more fun with the proper bike. I don't like riding my really nice mountain bike for 20 miles on the streets to get to an off road destination. So I definitely need (I believe) a cross bike. I need the speed on paved streets and just enough tire/tread and slightly better gearing to get through the fire roads quickly and with more agility. The only other consideration is cost. I don't want to pile too much money into this. I have 2 previous Dura-Ace groups in the garage, one in a box and one on an older road bike. I know I either need v-style brakes or disc. I don't care which I use as I don't think the advantages of disc are that great in dry conditions. So I know I need to buy a frame and probably wheels that accept wider cross tires (?). I have bars, stems, seat posts, seats, probably need an extra pair of XT pedals.
I'm looking at craigslist and frame sales on sites like competitive cyclist.com. Any recommendations? I'd like to keep it under $1,500 for a frame, fork, wheels. And I'm not looking for retro steel frames, since I do like light weight and stiffness.
Tig
Fucktangular
I'd look at State Bicycle Company for an affordable frame. I think their Thunderbird might fit the bill. https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/off-road-division-bikes-cyclo-cross-bikes
Disc brakes are better in all conditions, including dry. A little dust on a rim brake track while riding off road isn't a fun experience. While the best disc modulation is with hydraulic, you can't use your existing Dura Ace levers. Luckily, TRP makes a hybrid brake that used a hydraulic caliper that is actuated by cable.
My favorite gravel and all around off road tire is the 40mm Maxxis Rambler. There are plenty of 32 and 38 mm tires that will also work on both paved and dirt.
http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviews/best-gravel-road-tires-tested-part-1
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
Cool thanks for the suggestions. But as far as brakes go I am looking for something that will work with my Dura-Ace levers. I've seen Dura-Ace levers used in conjunction center position brake levers - which I would think a lot of people would want for cross. But what are people using to shift Dura-Ace derailleurs if they have to use disc brake levers?
Tig
Fucktangular
That's why I brought up the TRP brakes that are actuated by cables, so any cable operated levers (like DA, Ultegra, 105, or SRAM) will work. If you went with hydraulic brakes, you'd have to buy new levers designed for hydraulics only. The other option is to use mechanical (all cable) disc brakes, but they don't modulate or stop as well as the hybrid's. Hybrid brakes are in between hydraulic and mechanical in performance, but are far better than cantilever rim brakes.
For instance, my bike came with mechanical 105 levers and derailleurs. The TRP hybrid calipers allow the use of standard levers instead of hydraulic levers. I like hydraulics, but they are a bit more of a pain to maintain. Bleeding them isn't fun.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
I've always wanted a Kona Jake the Snake. But that is alu and probably not a super light bike. A little more old skool and crossover into commuter.
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
they look nice. Single gear in the front looks like a good move.
nuke_diver
Riding Solo
Any favourite bicycle pumps? Looks like my latest one is starting to struggle with the higher pressures I run on my newer bike and it's also becoming a pain to get the presta valves to open properly, usually takes 2-3 minutes of fiddling per tire. It still works ok on the schrader valves but I don't want to be in a situation where if fails and I need it for a ride
rickenvox
Animal Psychic
Good Italian pumps used to be rebuildable, now pumps are all cheaply made. I bought a nice Park pump a few years ago and it went bad faster than cheaper pumps. I just get whatever Performance has with a gauge, switchable head, and cheap price.
Tig
Fucktangular
If you have a Specialized dealer around, buy their basic floor pump. I've seen them last for several years in shops, which get plenty of use.
The newer universal valve heads are a nice improvement from the older pumps.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
This that I just found in my new bicycling magazine looks nice, and only $125 list price. A lot more than I would typically spend, but probably is built to last. OK, who am I kidding? I still probably wouldn't spend that much money on a pump.
But it looks really nice.
nuke_diver
Riding Solo
$125 is way more than I would be willing to spend too. I've seen some reviews, Bontrager Turbo Charger HP was well rated by one, Topeak JoeBlow Sport 2 by another and Lezyne Steel Floor Drive by a third. The first and 3rd are about $60 which is also a bit rich for me for a pump. I do recognize that the last one I got which was cheap is probably struggling now because it's cheap. I suspect that there is some leakage around the piston which is why it is getting hard to hit the higher pressures. The one I had before was better for pumping but the hose broke and I couldn't find replacement parts.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Mine is very close to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-JoeBl...id=1505858448&sr=8-8&keywords=topeak+joe+blow My brother got it for me for my birthday years ago. The head takes either presta or schraeder. It has held up just fine. See the top part of the cylinder? There is a flat piece that is sort of oblong there. Every so often, I need to tighten that part by hand so air does not leak out of the top of the piston. No big deal, and it seems to have lasted a good long time. I can't remember exactly how long, but I bet the better part of 10 years if not longer. And Nashbar has them at $50 rather than $70 at Amazon. http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=581310&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=datafeed&cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Topeak JoeBlow Sprint Floor Pump&CAWELAID=400006960000128689&source=googleUS&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=24469518258&CATCI=pla-169328539218&catargetid=400006960000132861&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgIPOBRDnARIsAHA1X3TQ0tcKR9u8whrzey_HTyOBY2QpqLiuDCxwFwiFGt1f4BFMW0Ejhp4aAo4PEALw_wcB
The only other issue I have had is the gauge is not accurate any more, but that is because the kid's tires that had green goo in them (that is why I think it is at least 10 years) got green goo up in the works.
The only other issue I have had is the gauge is not accurate any more, but that is because the kid's tires that had green goo in them (that is why I think it is at least 10 years) got green goo up in the works.
sunvalleylaw
Yep.
Regarding the Silca, I would probably never do it, but there is what I think is perhaps an 80's Silca floor pump at the office that just never dies. Black with fuschia pink writing on it, and a wooden handle. Presta only.
nuke_diver
Riding Solo
Went for a ride today, 5 minutes to get the pump to work right on the rear tire 
, first world problem I know. I'm leaning towards this one
AerGun X-1000 Bike Pump. Good reviews on Amazon 4.6/5 and $35 with a lifetime warranty. Seem to have decent support as well given some of the responses by the company on some of the bad reviews
This one also seems pretty good Vibrelli Performance Bike Floor Pump
, first world problem I know. I'm leaning towards this oneAerGun X-1000 Bike Pump. Good reviews on Amazon 4.6/5 and $35 with a lifetime warranty. Seem to have decent support as well given some of the responses by the company on some of the bad reviews
This one also seems pretty good Vibrelli Performance Bike Floor Pump
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