The Bicycle / Biking Gear Thread

Instead of polluting @Mark Wein 's "bicycling" thread, which should be more about the actual riding, with my gearhead talk, I wanted to start a gear thread.

Particularly, because I have a new bike on order, and am interested in some gearhead type mods. Thought others might like a place to talk about mods, new bikes, tires, etc.

As a reminder, I am buying a 2015 (new old stock) Kona Process 111. http://2015.konaworld.com/process_111.cfm link with specs. Looks like this:

1.jpg



There are three changes I am considering for my new bike.
1). That is, starting out at 120mm on the Pike front fork (stock) and considering 130. I figure I will ride a while first to decide. Any further input welcome.

2). putting either a 28 or a 30 tooth ring up front to replace the 32. On my test ride, I felt that I definitely wanted one more gear down low. Not too worried about losing a little top end. Any advice there? Also considering an ovalized front ring. Just because they seem to be coming back. But more probably I will stick with round.

3.) Swapping out the stock WTB ST i23 wheels for something wider and lighter. Would love some options and advice here. Was thinking about either the WTB Asym in 29 mm width, or a Stan's Flow EX in similar width. But also now have been thinking about getting a set of chinese carbon rims, assymetrical, 35 mm outer width, 29 mm inner width. I would run tubeless as I already do. Would look at a Hope hub, or DT 350 or DT 240. Would probably try to find a local bike shop to build them up (estimated build cost 30-35) vs trying to do it on my own. Would probably use DT Swiss spokes or Sapim. http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow.php?cid=77&tid=8&id=207#.Vt5h2JMrJE5 Light Bicycle also sells similar rims and builds up wheels. Thoughts?? This is the one I know little about. I have never had custom wheels built, much less built them myself.

Any gear stuff you guys are thinking about?
 
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Now also considering Easton Heists, or an Easton Arc rim built up with Dt 350 from Fanatik wheel/bike builder. A little heavier than carbon, lighter than my stock rims, much more inexpensive. $632 vs. around $800 (or more with shipping) for carbon option.
 
That is nice and comfy looking! You, former racer of mountain bikes, do you have any thoughts on modern 29'er wheels?
I'm pretty out of touch on MTB wheels these days. Give the stock wheels a few weeks of riding first.

What I like, I can't afford! (Industry 9)
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This reminds me I need to take my front flat tire off the bike and bring it down to get it fixed. I might just bring the whole bike in for a tune-up. I also need to get a more comfortable seat. The current one is rather narrow for a gentleman of my carriage. :embarrassed:
 
The i9's are SWEET!! But you can spend as much as the bike on such a set. Or building up some ENVE's, same thing.

I am hoping to come up with a decent option, and sell the stock ones new, rather than ridden, to help offset the cost. So decent yet practical will be key. the stock ones are pretty heavy, with not super awesome hubs. (not that I am getting i9!) And they are a bit narrow. If I can keep my investment overall into a few hundred bucks additional, it might be worth it to me.
 
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This reminds me I need to take my front flat tire off the bike and bring it down to get it fixed. I might just bring the whole bike in for a tune-up. I also need to get a more comfortable seat. The current one is rather narrow for a gentleman of my carriage. :embarrassed:
You can save a few bucks and fix that flat yourself. Easy repair everyone should know how to do, especially if you have a flat out on the road. Here is one of many, many vids online about how to. As easy or easier as changing strings.



Getting a sufficiently wide saddle for your sitz bones is a good thing! I hear you there!
 
This reminds me I need to take my front flat tire off the bike and bring it down to get it fixed. I might just bring the whole bike in for a tune-up. I also need to get a more comfortable seat. The current one is rather narrow for a gentleman of my carriage. :embarrassed:

I'm not sure what kind of bike it is, but try adding 40 psi in each tire and see if it holds overnight. All tires slowly deflate over time since the tubes are slightly porous. Narrow road bike tires require pumping up (just topping off) every few days, MTB tires every week, and balloon tire cruisers every 2-3 weeks.
 
@Kerouac
Totally agree with SVL, changing a tire is pretty easy and something everyone should know how to do (like you should on your car :)). Make sure you have a set of tire levers and if you want it to be even easier a bead jack is an awesome tool. I only wish they were made smaller so I could fit one in my saddle bag. Sometimes it can be hard to get the tire back on the rim (especially when you are 20 miles from home on the side of the road :mad:). A bead jack makes it a piece of cake.
 
@Kerouac
Totally agree with SVL, changing a tire is pretty easy and something everyone should know how to do (like you should on your car :)). Make sure you have a set of tire levers and if you want it to be even easier a bead jack is an awesome tool. I only wish they were made smaller so I could fit one in my saddle bag. Sometimes it can be hard to get the tire back on the rim (especially when you are 20 miles from home on the side of the road :mad:). A bead jack makes it a piece of cake.

I have none of those things. :embarrassed:
 
You can save a few bucks and fix that flat yourself. Easy repair everyone should know how to do, especially if you have a flat out on the road. Here is one of many, many vids online about how to. As easy or easier as changing strings.


Since I'm a fat f_ck and ride on poorly-maintained NorCal streets, I get all manner of flats. I probably have to change a tube at least once a month, if I'm lucky! I always carry a little pump, new and patched tubes and a set of tire levers.
 
I have none of those things. :embarrassed:
No worries. You can do this thing. You can get what you need for not much when you go get your new saddle at the LBS (local bike shop in bike internet speak). :wink: If you want, the shop will probably run you through changing the tube on your flat while you are there, though you will pay them for that. But then you will have had a lesson in it, and they can set you up with some tire levers, a tube, and a patch kit. Oh, and you will want a pump. Just good security to have when you are out, and cheaper than a cab ride back home.
 
Old dogs can forget old tricks edition:
For the last few weeks I've been struggling with my power during rides. I haven't been able to ride as fast without it killing me. My legs get sore quickly and my LT feels like it shows up at a lower heart rate. Some of this is because I've been riding more and maybe adding too much too soon.

Then I discovered a few problems with the bike that were definitely slowing me down/requiring more power from me. A few weeks ago I replaced my disc brake pads and recently found one of the front pads was rubbing. I'd spin the wheel by hand and it would stop in half a rotation! I tweeked the caliper alignment and all was well, or so I thought.

I've been wanting to replace the heavy 32mm Gatorskin tires with some lighter and more aero 28mm Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II's. They have most of the flat protection, plus they have 330 TPI instead of the not so compliant Gatorskin's 180 TPI. The wheels have now lost a total of .4 pounds or rotating weight.

During the tire swap at home, I felt the rear wheel's hubs were very tight and binding. The bearings were still fine so I adjusted the cones and now they feel smooth and free of friction. Between the brake rub and the bound up hub bearings, I was wasting a lot of energy. I tested my solo average speed on a cross wind road and gained 1.5 to 2 MPH with the same perceived output.

Lesson learned. :facepalm:
 
That gave me an erection.
Instead of polluting @Mark Wein 's "bicycling" thread, which should be more about the actual riding, with my gearhead talk, I wanted to start a gear thread.

Particularly, because I have a new bike on order, and am interested in some gearhead type mods. Thought others might like a place to talk about mods, new bikes, tires, etc.

As a reminder, I am buying a 2015 (new old stock) Kona Process 111. http://2015.konaworld.com/process_111.cfm link with specs. Looks like this:

View attachment 26197


There are three changes I am considering for my new bike.
1). That is, starting out at 120mm on the Pike front fork (stock) and considering 130. I figure I will ride a while first to decide. Any further input welcome.

2). putting either a 28 or a 30 tooth ring up front to replace the 32. On my test ride, I felt that I definitely wanted one more gear down low. Not too worried about losing a little top end. Any advice there? Also considering an ovalized front ring. Just because they seem to be coming back. But more probably I will stick with round.

3.) Swapping out the stock WTB ST i23 wheels for something wider and lighter. Would love some options and advice here. Was thinking about either the WTB Asym in 29 mm width, or a Stan's Flow EX in similar width. But also now have been thinking about getting a set of chinese carbon rims, assymetrical, 35 mm outer width, 29 mm inner width. I would run tubeless as I already do. Would look at a Hope hub, or DT 350 or DT 240. Would probably try to find a local bike shop to build them up (estimated build cost 30-35) vs trying to do it on my own. Would probably use DT Swiss spokes or Sapim. http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow.php?cid=77&tid=8&id=207#.Vt5h2JMrJE5 Light Bicycle also sells similar rims and builds up wheels. Thoughts?? This is the one I know little about. I have never had custom wheels built, much less built them myself.

Any gear stuff you guys are thinking about?
 
Instead of polluting @Mark Wein 's "bicycling" thread, which should be more about the actual riding, with my gearhead talk, I wanted to start a gear thread.

Particularly, because I have a new bike on order, and am interested in some gearhead type mods. Thought others might like a place to talk about mods, new bikes, tires, etc.

As a reminder, I am buying a 2015 (new old stock) Kona Process 111. http://2015.konaworld.com/process_111.cfm link with specs. Looks like this:

View attachment 26197


There are three changes I am considering for my new bike.
1). That is, starting out at 120mm on the Pike front fork (stock) and considering 130. I figure I will ride a while first to decide. Any further input welcome.

2). putting either a 28 or a 30 tooth ring up front to replace the 32. On my test ride, I felt that I definitely wanted one more gear down low. Not too worried about losing a little top end. Any advice there? Also considering an ovalized front ring. Just because they seem to be coming back. But more probably I will stick with round.

3.) Swapping out the stock WTB ST i23 wheels for something wider and lighter. Would love some options and advice here. Was thinking about either the WTB Asym in 29 mm width, or a Stan's Flow EX in similar width. But also now have been thinking about getting a set of chinese carbon rims, assymetrical, 35 mm outer width, 29 mm inner width. I would run tubeless as I already do. Would look at a Hope hub, or DT 350 or DT 240. Would probably try to find a local bike shop to build them up (estimated build cost 30-35) vs trying to do it on my own. Would probably use DT Swiss spokes or Sapim. http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow.php?cid=77&tid=8&id=207#.Vt5h2JMrJE5 Light Bicycle also sells similar rims and builds up wheels. Thoughts?? This is the one I know little about. I have never had custom wheels built, much less built them myself.

Any gear stuff you guys are thinking about?
Update:

1. Sticking at 120mm on the fork for now. Consensus is it works great there. Can revisit later if I want to.

2. probably going to get an AbsoluteBlack oval chainring, 30t that feels like 28. A little more expensive than a standard chainring, but worth a try.

3. Found a buddy to help me build and set up my own wheels, so selling the stock ones new/unused, and ordering carbon rims, DT Swiss 350 hubs, and Sapim Laser spokes with brass nipples, and some tape to set up for tubeless.
 
Brass nipples turn me on! :quag:

But seriously, I always advise brass spoke nipples over aluminum. I've seen aluminum nipples fail even under lightweight women riders.
 
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