Speaker load question

micwalt

micwalt

Too Controversial To Have An Athleisure Line
So, I've been researching direct recording options. There are tons of boxes that do the trick, but the ones with a built-in load are way more expensive. A few years back, I built a box with this:
http://www.parts-express.com/8-ohm-100w-non-inductive-dummy-load-resistor--019-020
connected to a jack, inside a metal box with a heat sink. I never really used it much because I wasn't really sure it was up to snuff. Can any of you electronics experts chime in and let me know if it's cool to use my DIY loadbox instead of a speaker?
Thanks.
 
Wyatt said:
Yes.

"On paper" it sounds fine for a 50w tube amp expecting a 8-ohm load.
Click to expand...

Wyatt, do you have any experience to comment on the SQ and reliability using non-inductive resistor load vs inductive loads? I've read some varying opinions in the past that since the non-inductive resistor doesn't replicate the changes in impedance that speakers do, the amp tone can be altered significantly. My only experience has been with the miniMass, air break & muzzle attenuators.
 
Wyatt said:
Yes.

"On paper" it sounds fine for a 50w tube amp expecting a 8-ohm load.
Click to expand...
Cool! This will be with my Classic 30 with the internal speaker disconnected or with my Super Champ head.
 
The transformers and tubes produce power....consuming that power requires transferring to either motion (moving a voice coil) or HEAT. I am suspect of any load reducing device that doesn't offer proper heat sinks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OGG
He's using it for exactly what it's marketed for...a dummy load. These are commonly wired up and screwed under the workbenches of audio techs when they need to test amps with the volume of speakers. The whole frame is a heat sink, that's why it is rated for 100w.

Here's a 1600-watt dummy load for testing car audio...
DSC_0039.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top