Oxidized Paint? Don't be skeered

Steverino

Steverino

black sheep
Well, it took close to 6 hours, but the poor truck deserved attention.
390114AC-AAD2-4B62-9C4D-7EAC47C837D4_zpsmellajft.jpg

I'm guessing the extended part of the cab was re-touched at some point. It seems to hold up against the elements a lot better than the rest of the truck. I got on it with some Meguiar's compound, then polish and then their NXT Tech Wax.
2F8E2EE5-4710-4980-A5D2-1D193463E533_zps3crzhrq9.jpg

Sorry for the blur
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And after a final detailing, tires and trim. Looks like a totally different truck. Only problem is, the paint oxidizes so quickly. I'm hoping that sealer helps.
 
sunvalleylaw said:
Looks great! What did you use? And what kind of buffer?
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Thanks! My arms are sore :embarrassed:

All Meguiar's stuff, their heavy compound (used a heavy duty DeWalt buffer) then their polish and then the NXT tech wax/sealer. I used a Harbor Freight DA buffer for the Tech Wax, but there was a LOT of manual "wax on/wax off" going on. That DeWalt scared the shit out of me, too easy to burn through, so I only used it on big, open surfaces like the roof, hood, and main open areas of the doors and bed. It cut very well with the compound, but I was very uncomfortable using it.
 
Yeah, that DeWalt would scare me too. I have a Griot's garage DA. It is going to be time soon to do that to my 2005 VW with a dark blue metallic finish. Not oxidized nearly that badly, but time to do some good clean up once spring fully hits. I have Meguiars "Ultimate" compound and polish also. I don't think I have a tech wax or sealer other than my old can of Meguiars Carnuba.

That looks really nice! Hope it lasts a while for you.
 
Looks like your x-cab might be base/clear while the rest of the truck is single stage. Not uncommon with recent body work or touch ups.

Nice job. Best part of SS paint is that it's easy to get a killer finish. Worst part is getting all that oxidized paint off your pads & towels
 
sunvalleylaw said:
Yeah, that DeWalt would scare me too. I have a Griot's garage DA. It is going to be time soon to do that to my 2005 VW with a dark blue metallic finish. Not oxidized nearly that badly, but time to do some good clean up once spring fully hits. I have Meguiars "Ultimate" compound and polish also. I don't think I have a tech wax or sealer other than my old can of Meguiars Carnuba.

That looks really nice! Hope it lasts a while for you.
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Seems like red is the worst when it comes to oxidation.
 
Lerxst said:
Looks like your x-cab might be base/clear while the rest of the truck is single stage. Not uncommon with recent body work or touch ups.

Nice job. Best part of SS paint is that it's easy to get a killer finish. Worst part is getting all that oxidized paint off your pads & towels
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The towels and pads may be too far gone to clean :grin:

I've thought about (if this sealer doesn't hold) just having someone clearcoat it.
 
Another pic
CEA3DD3F-133D-4F63-9B34-46F94C2F0A14_zps34kxuiou.jpg

Btw, I could not get those factory alloy wheels clean using "aluminum wheel cleaners" elbow grease, nothing would clean them. It's like the dirt/brake dust gets into the metal. Finally out of frustration, I grabbed a gallon of aluminum AC fin cleaner and put some in a spray bottle. That cleaned 'em alright, in about 30 seconds.
 
sunvalleylaw said:
Yeah, that DeWalt would scare me too. I have a Griot's garage DA. It is going to be time soon to do that to my 2005 VW with a dark blue metallic finish. Not oxidized nearly that badly, but time to do some good clean up once spring fully hits. I have Meguiars "Ultimate" compound and polish also. I don't think I have a tech wax or sealer other than my old can of Meguiars Carnuba.

That looks really nice! Hope it lasts a while for you.
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Something to consider when your approach polishing your VW; modern clear coats don't really oxidize so much as they get loaded up with defects that diffuse the light and make the surface look hazy. When you polish, you're removing clear coat to go past these defects & create a uniform surface, and in turn shine. (technically when base/clear oxidizes, the clear is failing)

The key is not to try and grind away a deep defects and burn through the clear coat. This is significantly easier to avoid w/ a DA than a rotary like the dewalt w/ forced rotation. Your area of primary concern w/ the DA is approaching hard lines and sharp panel edges. Its not too hard to go over a hard line in the body and get a really aggressive approach and burn the clear. Even then if you keep that in mind, it's easy peasey
 
Lerxst said:
Something to consider when your approach polishing your VW; modern clear coats don't really oxidize so much as they get loaded up with defects that diffuse the light and make the surface look hazy. When you polish, you're removing clear coat to go past these defects & create a uniform surface, and in turn shine. (technically when base/clear oxidizes, the clear is failing)

The key is not to try and grind away a deep defects and burn through the clear coat. This is significantly easier to avoid w/ a DA than a rotary like the dewalt w/ forced rotation. Your area of primary concern w/ the DA is approaching hard lines and sharp panel edges. Its not too hard to go over a hard line in the body and get a really aggressive approach and burn the clear. Even then if you keep that in mind, it's easy peasey
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Good to remember. I tend to get stuck in my old knowledge for my old Alfa paint that was clearly single stage paint. Do you think Meguiar's Ultimate compound is too aggressive for the VW if I go easy? I think the "ultimate" series is supposed to be designed for us home guys rather than pros really trying to get aggressive. The car has a fair amount of little clear scratches and defects as you say. I was thinking of hitting it pretty easy with the compound, then using the polish, and was starting to think of a sealer/wax. Was going to let the DA do the work and not push on things, and be really careful around hard lines and edges. In fact, I don't mind doing some hand work there while I get comfortable withe the whole thing. Regarding wax/sealer, I could always just use up my old can of Meguiars carnuba.

Oh, and I have some paint cleaning clay I can use too if I find a reason.

Re: the compound, from Meguiar's:

Ultimate Compound
Product number: G17216 | SKU: 070382172169
Safely restore color and clarity to abused and neglected finishes with Meguiar's® Ultimate Compound. Our revolutionary formula cuts as fast as harsh abrasive compounds but without scratching… even on clear coat finishes.
• Cuts fast and removes swirl marks, without scratching paint surface
• Use by hand or with a DA Polisher
 
Lot of work but I bet it was easier than buying the wife a new truck. I bet she gets a lot of compliments on it. Went from looking worn to looking brand new.
 
sunvalleylaw said:
Good to remember. I tend to get stuck in my old knowledge for my old Alfa paint that was clearly single stage paint. Do you think Meguiar's Ultimate compound is too aggressive for the VW if I go easy? I think the "ultimate" series is supposed to be designed for us home guys rather than pros really trying to get aggressive. The car has a fair amount of little clear scratches and defects as you say. I was thinking of hitting it pretty easy with the compound, then using the polish, and was starting to think of a sealer/wax. Was going to let the DA do the work and not push on things, and be really careful around hard lines and edges. In fact, I don't mind doing some hand work there while I get comfortable withe the whole thing. Regarding wax/sealer, I could always just use up my old can of Meguiars carnuba.

Oh, and I have some paint cleaning clay I can use too if I find a reason.

Re: the compound, from Meguiar's:

Ultimate Compound
Product number: G17216 | SKU: 070382172169
Safely restore color and clarity to abused and neglected finishes with Meguiar's® Ultimate Compound. Our revolutionary formula cuts as fast as harsh abrasive compounds but without scratching… even on clear coat finishes.
• Cuts fast and removes swirl marks, without scratching paint surface
• Use by hand or with a DA Polisher
Click to expand...

You will want to minimize the amount of hand work you do. Modern clear coats are way too hard to get quality results by hand unless you want to cripple yourself in the process or just use products that temporarily mask the defects. and
dive in and work in small 2x2 sections. Start with the flat panels to get comfortable with the machine. Don't over think it. On the scale of difficulty, 1-10, this is a 2.

-clay before polishing is a must otherwise you're just going to grind whatever contaminates are in the paint w/ your pad

-'cut' is a function of pad and product combo. Most people divide 1st time polishing for car into two steps; heavy defect removal & finish polishing. What amount of cut you need for each step depends on how hammered the finish is. Do a test panel starting light and working towards more cut until you find the right combos for the results you want.

-I'd skip carnuba wax for your protection. Great looks but shit durability. Why do all that hard work to apply a wax that'll be beat in a few weeks. Lots of great sealants and coatings on the market that will provide great durability and looks for a whole lot longer.
 
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