Oh, great.

Prages

Prages

User Error
My clutch is losing hydraulic pressure. I'm fairly sure it's the master cylinder, which is actually great news because that can be replaced for about $70 without having to drop the transmission. It's been getting sloppy since the weather turned cool, and I did bleed it last weekend, but it's so bad now that I have to sit at stop lights in neutral furiously pumping the pedal and even then, half the time I have to turn the engine off, put it in gear, then restart the engine. It's actually slightly engaged even with the pedal on the floor.

I ordered a pre bled reservoir, master cylinder, and hydraulic line this morning. Should get it early next week. I'll be parking the truck until I get the parts. I hope I don't hit any stop and go traffic on the way home.
 
Denverdave said:
Do you have another vehicle you can use next week?
Click to expand...

Yeah, we still have the Blazer and the Impala. We had the Blazer's brakes fixed a month or so back, so it's road worthy again. It's not the end of the world if the Ranger is out of commission for a while. I just really prefer driving it to the either of the other two.
 
I'm going to be replacing my stripped exhaust manifold studs/bolts on my truck this weekend. Shame you're not closer cause we could at least always have one fully functional truck between the two of us.
 
My biggest concern is this.

The slave cylinder on my Ranger is a concentric cylinder on the input shaft of the transmission. To replace it, you have to pull the transmission, which means removing the drive shaft, removing the transfer case, and even loosening the Y pipe on the exhaust (it needs maybe 1" more clearance to remove the transmission).

I've done this job, and it sucks.

Now, since I know it's a hydraulic problem, not a clutch surface problem (clutch grabs fine, it just doesn't disengage and the pedal is very soft through 1/2 of its travel), the first diagnostic I did was to disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave. It is just clipped into place on the outside of the bell housing, and it has an auto shutoff valve. When you disconnect, if there is no air in the master assembly, the pedal should be hard as a rock. Mine still went down a few inches, so I know the air is in either the master or the hydraulic line, not the slave.

The problems is this...if the slave is leaking fluid (which I didn't see with a visual inspection through the view port in the bell housing), the air will always travel up, and the master is at a bad angle that allows an air bubble at the top that can only be bled out if you take out the master, reservoir, and hydraulic line and bench bleed it. Plus, the stupid hydraulic line has about 5 sharp angles in it that allow for air pockets. The only way to get the air out is to bench bleed.

So, it's entirely possible that I will replace the master assembly, only to find my problem return in a few days because the slave is actually letting air in, but the bubble rises up to the master assembly.

I really hope that isn't the case, as I really don't feel like spending all day pulling the transmission to replace a $30 part.
 
Last edited:
Lerxst said:
I'm going to be replacing my stripped exhaust manifold studs/bolts on my truck this weekend. Shame you're not closer cause we could at least always have one fully functional truck between the two of us.
Click to expand...

Are they stripped where the manifold bolts to the head? That could be a heck of a job, depending on how bad the access is on your truck.
 
Prages said:
Are they stripped where the manifold bolts to the head? That could be a heck of a job, depending on how bad the access is on your truck.
Click to expand...

Two studs, one at each end of the mainfold and two bolts in the center....V6 On the right bank, the front stud is stripped on the outside/nut side that holds the end of the manifold to the head so I have an exhaust leak on that spot. I'm going to try and pull all the studs and bolts, on both sides, to replace w/ new bolts. Fingers crossed that nothing breaks off flush w/ the heads. $10 in parts between hardware and new manifold gaskets but I expect it to be a fight.
 
I made it home. Barely. No clutch at all, so I rolled through stop signs, and tried to time out the lights.

Luckily, no traffic on the way home.

The master cylinder is an easy 1 hour job...even by my standards.

The slave, though, that'll take at least 8 hours for me. I really hope the master solves the problem. Parts should be here early next week.
 
Denverdave said:
Was it the Ranger or the Blazer that you rebuilt the engine on not too long ago?
Click to expand...

It was the Ranger, but that was 3 years and 50k miles ago.

Engine is still running like a champ. It's everything else that is showing its age.

It's still a great vehicle to be 15 years old with 205k miles on it, but if I need another major repair, it won't be an easy choice.
 
Best of luck. Hope you don't have to yank the tranny. I think I've got the same setup with mine, though I'm not sure. Got 230K on the stock clutch.
 
Steverino said:
Best of luck. Hope you don't have to yank the tranny. I think I've got the same setup with mine, though I'm not sure. Got 230K on the stock clutch.
Click to expand...

The slave cylinder is a notorious weak link on the Ranger (all Fords, really). I really hope it's just the master this time.

I've done a full clutch on a 1993 Ford Explorer, and twice on the Ranger (the second was just out of convenience since the motor was out).

It's not a fun job.
 
Prages said:
The slave cylinder is a notorious weak link on the Ranger (all Fords, really). I really hope it's just the master this time.

I've done a full clutch on a 1993 Ford Explorer, and twice on the Ranger (the second was just out of convenience since the motor was out).

It's not a fun job.
Click to expand...
Just checked a couple YT videos. Looks like I've got same setup, the SC is inside bellhousing, around the input shaft.
 
Steverino said:
Just checked a couple YT videos. Looks like I've got same setup, the SC is inside bellhousing, around the input shaft.
Click to expand...


At least the Chevy seems to be a little more robust.

If you're at 200k miles on the original, you're doing fine.

I've never gotten over 120k on a Ford slave cylinder.
 
Okay, Rock Auto truly does rock.

Ordered my master cylinder at 8:embarrassed:0 yesterday morning, didn't pay extra for rush shipping, and it was at my door by noon today.

Took about 45 minutes to install, and so far, it feels like a brand new clutch. I hope it stays that way.
 
Wow, that is fast delivery :)

Would the CJ/TJ be replacing this vehicle, if you ever get one?
 
Jbird said:
Wow, that is fast delivery :)

Would the CJ/TJ be replacing this vehicle, if you ever get one?
Click to expand...

That would greatly depend on the Jeep. I don't really want a CJ. If I found a great condition, low miles TJ that I thought could be a reliable daily driver, the Ranger would likely be sold. If the Jeep were in less than perfect condition and/or higher mileage, it would just be a toy, and I'd keep the Ranger as a DD.
 
MOJO.
I just went to do an oil change on my Cherokee. In addition to the oil pan gasket,it looks like the valve and timing chain cover gaskets need replacing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top