Let's talk tuning machine heads....

I've got a few guitars with locking tuners. I just put a set on my LP Special when I took off the robot tuners.
I love them. But as mentioned, they don't improve tuning stability. They make changing strings much easier and a little faster though.
I like the thumb wheel type and not the slotted locks that need a screwdriver to open.
 
I have had good luck with Grover 18:1 tuners but would consider Hipshot for any new project.
 
I do not like locking tuners. They do not tune any better than non-locking tuners, even though that's what people think they do. Their purpose is simply to minimize the number of windings around the post. IMO, if you want to "upgrade", find a higher ratio tuner. They will help you get better tuning stability and intonation.
+2
 
I think it makes string changes way easier because they grab the string and you don't have to wind the strings a thousand times. That's the only reason I use them.
this - I think the main advantage is just speed of string changes
 
I've had them on several guitars that were already equipped with them when I bought it. Never really felt one way or other about them, nor could I give any sort of dissertation on what makes one type better than another.

That said, they made a world of difference on The Black Strat of Doom. Not sure what they are, I got them from GFS along with all the other black hardware, but they dropped right in and greatly enhanced tuning stability over the cheap tuning machines they replaced. Style and function-wise, they are basically a Sperzel but didn't break the bank.
 
Every F style guitar I own have the Schaller locking tuners (M6). Love them, and haven't had one fail yet in about 1o years or so of using them.
 
The locking mechanism usually breaks for me. Pins get stuck. I've had Grovers that have just fallen apart.
The '06 Carvin CT I owned had Sperzel locking tuners, and if you loosened the wheel too far the locking pin/peg/whatever inside the tuner would 'fall'out' (it would still be inside the unit, however) and not work. Luckily I could get them to pop back in when this happened, but it was a pain in the a**. Hated those tuning pegs. Carvin/Kiesel no longer uses them, so I guess it wasn't just me.
 
I put some Hipshot locking tuners on my Strat. They're the kind that mount on a plate so you don't have to drill any holes. They're fantastic, and they're staggered to boot.

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The '06 Carvin CT I owned had Sperzel locking tuners, and if you loosened the wheel too far the locking pin/peg/whatever inside the tuner would 'fall'out' (it would still be inside the unit, however) and not work. Luckily I could get them to pop back in when this happened, but it was a pain in the a**. Hated those tuning pegs. Carvin/Kiesel no longer uses them, so I guess it wasn't just me.

Actually, I think I've had them fall completely out before, but my Sperzel days were long ago (late '90's?) and my memory foggy.
 
I put some Hipshot locking tuners on my Strat. They're the kind that mount on a plate so you don't have to drill any holes. They're fantastic, and they're staggered to boot.

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EiazywM.jpg

Those are what I have on the 3 I built. The plates are awesome.
 
@parrotheada1a, what's the actual issue you're having that you want to replace your tuners?

The big issue is that two of the original posts seem to be slightly bent just above the threaded washers on top. Another thing is that two other ones seem to have a lot of wiggle in 'em. You can't tell while they are under tension, but I can lift the pins a bit when I'm changing strings. A bit meaning .020 +. Seems they should be nice and tight, and I sure as hell wouldn't want them to fail if I was holding the guitar. I could bring it to my local luthier, but he would charge me more in labor to put 'rm in than he machines themselves.
 
I'm not a locking tuner fan. Tried a few...some were a real hassle to use (the original Sperzel-designed PRS were physically painful to use), others got stuck, none held tuning any better than any good non-locking tuner, regardless of trem use. They do NOT replace a locking nut for Floyd Rose, they do nothing to stop a string from lifting out of a slot in a dive bomb. I prefer split-shaft on Fender and properly winding a standard post (see below). As long as the ratio is 15:1 or higher (preferably higher), I'm good.

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I concede string changes are faster with locking tuning...until you have to find your deadblow hammer to unstick a Sperzel pin.

That's the technique I use. Locking tuners are much more stable on a vibrato-equipped guitar. I used to break two trem arms a year on my strat, because I needed to sharply pull up to re-seat the windings dozens of times upon restringing, and regularly during playing. None of that with locking tuners. Non-Floyd bridges don't slack far enough to pop strings out of nut slots, so that's a non-issue for me.

Otherwise, yes, on a fixed bridge, they serve virtually no purpose.
 
This video @ 6:20 shows the 'lock wrap' or 'over wrap' method of stringing the guitar I like to use on standard tuners. very stable


anywho, I like any tuner that holds fast and has a reasonable ration be they locking tuners or standard tuners. I also really like vintage style split shaft tuners.
 
The big issue is that two of the original posts seem to be slightly bent just above the threaded washers on top. Another thing is that two other ones seem to have a lot of wiggle in 'em. You can't tell while they are under tension, but I can lift the pins a bit when I'm changing strings. A bit meaning .020 +. Seems they should be nice and tight, and I sure as hell wouldn't want them to fail if I was holding the guitar. I could bring it to my local luthier, but he would charge me more in labor to put 'rm in than he machines themselves.
OK, so you have potential damage...

As others have mentioned before, go for the Hipshot tuners with the plate. They're super easy to install and extremely high quality.

These are literally the exact ones I got from this seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hipshot-CHR...r-Guitar-Machines-Tuners-w-UMP-/401144903977?
 
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