Guitar Build 2017!

I like the all-natural racing stripe look, but would be leery using unmatched boards for either side. At least wiggle them enough that you have similar grain on either side, maybe.
 
They're a lot less unmatched than what's underneath and the best I can come up with. They'll have to do.
They're sequential cut from a longer board, so, not a perfect bookmatch but very similar.
 
After much research on wood drying, I tried an experiment.
From what I read, wood undergoes its most dramatic movement at the time it reaches equilibrium moisture content, which is around 20%. After that, you get very little additional drying without help and it needs to come down to 6-8% before building.
In the old days, folks stacked it in an attic or other hot place and waited. Now, they use kilns for that. I dot have a kiln, so I learned about some alternative methods, including your oven and your microwave! By all reports, the microwave method works well if you do it right, which about a minute in, then allow to cool. You weigh the piece after each trip through and, when no further weight loss is recorded, you're done.
(I also learned that the one year per inch of thickness rule really only applies to pieces an inch thick or more. Thin stock dries quickly.)
So, my board weighed in at 325 grams to start. After the first trip through, it came out at 319 grams. Then 318, 317, 316, etc until I got to 314 grams. No more weight loss after that despite several more nukings.
No warping, twisting or checking is noticed.
I think this board may be ready. It sure feels dry. Sandpaper makes dust and not chunks like it did when green.
 
It sure changed color, too.

image.jpg
 
Just finished printing my fretboard template.
Given that, so far, I have zero dollars in this fretboard and I've always wanted to see what a "no truss rod" neck was like, I'm very tempted.
I think this neck will be plenty stiff on it's own and with the laminations, it shouldn't ever move. The relief will be non adjustable, but like I always said about my carved bridge, if it's right, it doesn't need to be adjustable...
If it fails, no biggie, I guess. Foo and I are already planning to take down a much larger osage orange for some one piece necks. He wants a five string bass, you see...
 
On the subject of no truss rod...

Unless I'm wrong, your neck construction is 2 pieces of walnut with a maple board sandwiched in between full length, with the fingerboard getting glued to all the pieces lengthwise, giving you 3 full length glue joints with each board save the fingerboard having at least 2 glued sides...that may just give you enough longitudinal support against the string tension as well as preventing any twist from the varying string weight...

Am I confident enough in that assessment to recommend proceeding without a truss rod? Well, no, not really...but it does make me very curious to find out...
 
jelloman said:
On the subject of no truss rod...

Unless I'm wrong, your neck construction is 2 pieces of walnut with a maple board sandwiched in between full length, with the fingerboard getting glued to all the pieces lengthwise, giving you 3 full length glue joints with each board save the fingerboard having at least 2 glued sides...that may just give you enough longitudinal support against the string tension as well as preventing any twist from the varying string weight...

Am I confident enough in that assessment to recommend proceeding without a truss rod? Well, no, not really...but it does make me very curious to find out...
Click to expand...

And that's exactly where I'm at. Lol.
But it's not like I'm paying big bucks for a Warmoth or something so I'm feeling adventurous.
 
jelloman said:
No, but you are investing a lot of time to it, and I hate to see that much effort go for naught...
Click to expand...

Yeah, but if I learn something out of it, worth it.
And if it has the tone of a choir of angels, even better. Lol.

And I don't even really know what I'm expecting, either. I just wanna see what's up.
 
Look what I found! Forgot this bad boy was under the storage rack. It's not quite wide enough for a one piece body but I can add a little to each side and blend it in.

image.jpg
image.jpg


I had to see how the fretboard wood polished up. Lol.

image.jpg
 
Elias Graves said:
After much research on wood drying, I tried an experiment.
From what I read, wood undergoes its most dramatic movement at the time it reaches equilibrium moisture content, which is around 20%. After that, you get very little additional drying without help and it needs to come down to 6-8% before building.
In the old days, folks stacked it in an attic or other hot place and waited. Now, they use kilns for that. I dot have a kiln, so I learned about some alternative methods, including your oven and your microwave! By all reports, the microwave method works well if you do it right, which about a minute in, then allow to cool. You weigh the piece after each trip through and, when no further weight loss is recorded, you're done.
(I also learned that the one year per inch of thickness rule really only applies to pieces an inch thick or more. Thin stock dries quickly.)
So, my board weighed in at 325 grams to start. After the first trip through, it came out at 319 grams. Then 318, 317, 316, etc until I got to 314 grams. No more weight loss after that despite several more nukings.
No warping, twisting or checking is noticed.
I think this board may be ready. It sure feels dry. Sandpaper makes dust and not chunks like it did when green.
Click to expand...

That's a big microwave you got there EG
 
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