Question: NCD. Speaker Mounting?

GDSmithTX

GDSmithTX

Corporate cog
I ordered my first new new 1x12 cab from this dude on ebay; the price was right and he has excellent feedback. It's a slant front cab made of 3/4" plywood with a satin black baffle, fire red tolex and a black grille. It's sharp-looking and the quality seems quite nice, particularly for the price (~$130 shipped).









I'm mounting one of two Eminence 1x12s in it: my wonderfully broken-in Swamp Thang or a new Legend GB128 (Greenback clone).

My question is this: What is the best way to mount the speaker to the baffle? I'm thinking T-nuts, but I'm open to suggestions.
 
I just have a question... Who's the seller and does he make closed-back 2x12s that look like Marshall 1936 cabs?
 
GilmourD said:
I just have a question... Who's the seller and does he make closed-back 2x12s that look like Marshall 1936 cabs?
Click to expand...

Here's the link to his store: http://stores.ebay.com/CASE-OUTLET-GPA?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I dunno what he does in the way of duplicating classic cab looks, but he does 2x12s (2x12 in charcoal black tolex is $150+shipping) and has a number of options for the cabs:
  • Optional : Sealed back standard; Open back on request, no charge; Removable back, add $19.95 (see pictures gallery)
  • Full face fine mesh, 18 gauge black powder coated metal grill with installing hardware, add $20.00(see pictures gallery)
  • 3x5 metal plate with one Switchcraft ¼” connector + one speakon original Amphenol or Neutrik connector connected in parallel with wire, add $9.95 • 3x5 metal plate with dual Speakon original Neutrik or Amphenol connectors connected in parallel with wire , add $12.95 .
  • NOTE, colors available, Fire Red Textured Tolex, Beauty Orange Texture Tolex, Ivory WhiteTexture Tolex, Bronco Black Texture Tolex, Elephant Skin Black Tolex, for any of this colors add $29.50 • Charcoal black Texture Tolex add $24.00

s-l500.jpg
 
Last edited:
HNCD

I just use a countersunk screw on the face, epoxy. Nut and lock washer on the back of the speaker. Probably not right but, I've been annoyed too much with t nuts spinning. More of a problem if the baffle is covered with grill cloth.
 
GDSmithTX said:
My question is this: What is the best way to mount the speaker to the baffle? I'm thinking T-nuts, but I'm open to suggestions.
Click to expand...

Mark Wein said:
Nice cab. I have no helpful advise though. @telecaster911 or @Wyatt might though.
Click to expand...

I don't do cabinetry. Haven't owned my own house for years and never had shop space when I did.

And I don't understand why anyone would sell a baffle without the speaker bolts installed.
 
Bob411 said:
HNCD

I just use a countersunk screw on the face, epoxy. Nut and lock washer on the back of the speaker. Probably not right but, I've been annoyed too much with t nuts spinning. More of a problem if the baffle is covered with grill cloth.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by epoxy? In addition to screwing the speaker down you apply epoxy to the surface of the speaker where it meets the baffle?
 
No. epoxy is just on the screw. The epoxy does two things. It keeps the screw from spinning. That isn't a big deal for you cuz, your baffle isn't covered with grill cloth. You have a separate grill so, you can get to the head of the screw. It also is harder than the wood. Keeps the screw from going deeper and deeper into the wood as you tighten the speaker.

I mix up the epoxy glue, comes in a double syringe looking thing, on a paper plate. I use a wood shim to mix it. Use a countersink bit on the holes, on the front of the baffle. Stick a flat head screw through the front of the baffle but don't push it all the way in. Scoop up some epoxy with the wood shim and apply to the top 1/2 inch of the screw. Push screw the rest of the way in, through speaker, tighten nut on back of speaker, "just good and snug don't keep tightening and tightening", clean off excess epoxy that oozed up on front of baffle. Let it sit a day. Tighten nuts now.
 
I make no endorsement of any way because, as noted above, I don't handle this.

I have seen just about every combination of countersunk flat-head, t-nut, pan-head, etc, with and without epoxy. I've even seen more than one person cut the head off of bolts (or use threaded rod) and epoxy them into the t-nuts.

T-nuts have a habit of chewing up MDF, particle board, even soft pine plywood, so people like to set them with epoxy to make sure they stay set.
 
Last edited:
T nuts are definitely the way to go with speakers. They hold securely and squeeze the wood right where all the torque happens when the speaker jumps around. It's not as huge a deal with a small guitar amp but with PA speakers and bass speakers, I've seen them tear out and then rattle as the speaker shakes. Sounds horrible in the process.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top