Bike experts (seadevil...): question about wheels/rims

CBHScott

How did I get here?
My bike is a Giant Cypress GT that I bought new (around $400) a few years ago. It is all original, and has close to 1000 miles on it. It needs a tune up, but more importantly, it has developed a bad habit of snapping spokes - mainly the rear wheel - at least twice over a six-month or so period over each of the last three years. I noticed this morning that another spoke had snapped near the hub :mad:. I had recently bought replacement spokes, so replacing it is not an issue, but the frequency of this happening does not please me.

Now, I currently weigh around 230; while it is a bit more than I would like, I don't think it should be a major factor. I'm 6'3", and the frame is XL (21" ?), so it is sized appropriately. 700c wheels. I generally will ride anywhere between 4 and 10 miles a shot, and the worst terrain would be a path along our local river, so I don't hit a ton of bumps or holes.

My question is: do I stick with this bike and upgrade the wheels? As I look, it seems that the cost may actually be prohibitive vs. the original cost of the bike itself; OR, should I fix it, tune ut up, then sell it and buy something with upgraded parts?

Hmmmmm, sounds familiar - almost like guitars and gear :facepalm:
 
It will keep happening most likely. It might help to know how many spokes the wheel has before anyone can make a suggestion on a replacement wheel. For riders over 190, I'm a big fan of 32 spokes, straight gauge with 3 cross lacing pattern on a decent semi-aero box construction rim.

It depends on the replacement wheel price on what to do with the bike, but I wouldn't put too much into it if you want to sell it.
 
Once they start popping they ain't stopping. You could do a re-lace (replace all the spokes), but that could run you up to $150. Of course replacing the wheels is another option, that would run around $200 for a nice set of double walled wheels which would be much stronger than the single walled hoops you're dealing with now.
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The only real problem with replacing the wheels is compatibility. Most direct replacement wheels that are double walled use 8-speed cassette hubs.
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Your bike likely has a 7-speed freewheel hub, so you would have to replace the freewheel with a 7-speed cassette with a spacer which will add $25-$35 to the placement cost. And if you replace the rear gear cluster you'd had better replace the chain as well to prevent premature cog wear.

It might not be worth it to you at this point to sink anymore money into this bike. I recommend a new one.

If you do buy a new one make sure it has double walled wheels.
 
^^^This. Like a used car, you have reached the point where a new ride is probably now in order.
i have upgraded wheels before, and it was an upgrade that neared the 50% purchase price of the bike itself. Damn good wheels, and they made a big difference for me..but I'm 5'10 150ish. AND a new bike always gets the riding juju ramped up..win-win! :thu:
 
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Once they start popping they ain't stopping. You could do a re-lace (replace all the spokes), but that could run you up to $150. Of course replacing the wheels is another option, that would run around $200 for a nice set of double walled wheels which would be much stronger than the single walled hoops you're dealing with now.
View attachment 14146

The only real problem with replacing the wheels is compatibility. Most direct replacement wheels that are double walled use 8-speed cassette hubs.
View attachment 14145

Your bike likely has a 7-speed freewheel hub, so you would have to replace the freewheel with a 7-speed cassette with a spacer which will add $25-$35 to the placement cost. And if you replace the rear gear cluster you'd had better replace the chain as well to prevent premature cog wear.

It might not be worth it to you at this point to sink anymore money into this bike. I recommend a new one.

If you do buy a new one make sure it has double walled wheels.


Thanks a lot for the in-depth response; i really appreciate it :thu:

I'm probably going to fix the broken spoke, get it tuned up, then put it up on CL.
 
Just came across this thread and have reason to resurrect it. I recently found out my company will pay 50% of the cost of a new bike, up to $250.00. I have an older Gary Fisher Marlin that I've been riding for a long time. Last time I took it for a tuneup, the bike shop wasn't able to true the wheels, so they rub the brakes every rotation of the wheels. The bike also doesn't have any suspension. It might be time for an upgrade. What would be a good choice for a quality bike under $500.00, for general riding on street and occasionally in the dirt?
 
I am 6' 3" and when I used to be over 200 lbs breaking spokes on the rear wheel was a regular occurrence. Only one solution, losing weight. Actually there is a second, buying heavier wheels with more spokes. Today's lightweight wheels do not hold up under a certain number of pounds (and over 200 is definitely in the spoke breaking range)

Also "upgrading" wheels usually means "lighter" wheels which won't help your spoke breaking tendencies. As mentioned above 36 spoke wheels with straight gauge spokes will be the strongest. Probably only needed on your back wheel though.
 
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